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One rope is all you need.

Some people will use 7.7 or 8.2mm - I don't have a problem taking a low-factor fall on such ropes, but getting a prusik or acender to bite can be difficult.

I have chosen a 9.2mm 35m rope, which will also work for harder climbing when required, at the cost of about 0.5kg. For two people 20-30m would be fine.

A dry rope is a very good idea for glaciers.

Whatever you choose, practice "falling" with a pack on, and climbing the rope with prusiks. I prefer Tiblocs, some don't. Try it yourself and make sure you have a system that works.

What's your 9.2mm rope What are Tiblocs

The books will say not to do a 2-man, but 2 man has its benefits compared to a 3+ person team if you have your 'ish dialed. Realistically, in my experience and in talking with much more experienced guides the majority of "falls" will likely be knee or waist deep. Easy enough for the one climber to extract themselves out on their own, or maybe with a helping hand from their partner...

Not taking away the importance of being able to do a z-pulley, or even a c-z...because you will need to do that, but maybe only 1 out of every 200 "falls".

My 2 cents!

Diego Sahagún wrote:What's your 9.2mm rope What are Triblocs

I chose a Sterling Fusion Nano because it was cheap. I would get a Mammut (or maybe Petzl) given the choice.

A Tibloc is a Petzl product which is a bit like a mechanical prusik, and a bit like a minimalist ascender. They have their limitations (easy to drop, can fray rope), but if you work around those they can be a very nice thing to have - much lighter than ascenders, but grippier and more versatile than prusiks.

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/multi-p ... ers/tibloc

I can easily buy a Beal rope more than any other trademark. Can the Tibloc be used with gloves What other products similar to Tibloc are there

Beal is not a brand I would choose, but I have no evidence to back that up. I am sure it would be fine.

As far as I know there's nothing else like a tibloc on the market. I can use one well enough with heavy gloves, but be sure to tie a small leash to your carabiner so you don't drop it by accident.

So would you all use twin ropes better than a 10-11 mm

Well

I'm considering on buying Beal Joker or Verdon II. Probably the first would be ideal. Any comments

The Joker looks perfect.

Can you get it shorter than 60m? That is very long for simul-climbing and glacier travel with two people. 30m would be nice.

Check around - you might be able to get the extra off the end of the spool and save money and weight with the shorter length.

We could ask for cutting it in two equal parts. Couldn't we

Certainly, if you don't care about the money. Then you have a nice rope you can use as twins or doubles as well.

The fact your asking about it should answer your question. If there is a doubt in your mind don't do it

Yeah, if you don't know this stuff you probably should stay off... although if you do go on, don't just tie into the end of a 30m rope, use a longer one and tie in 30 ft from the end so that you have a bunch of rope already available to build a rescue system if you have to. It is definitely possible to build/haul by yourself, but you should practice, practice, practice before you get on the ice.

tmaxwell wrote:The fact your asking about it should answer your question. If there is a doubt in your mind don't do it

I'd second that! Glacier travel in a 2 person team with 0 experience is pretty unacceptable from a safety standpoint. You may know how to prusik up a rope but that's of little use if you don't know how to hold a fall, make an anchor (dig in your axe) and attach the rope to the anchor. Furthermore, what would you do if your partner is somehow unable to prusik out of the crevasse? Even if you've held the fall, set up a perfect anchor and attached the rope to it, if your partner is hurt or otherwise unable to perform, then what? There are very good pulley systems you can use (ie with the aforementioned tibloc or just standard prusiks), but again these take practice. Finally, knowing how to prusik isn't enough because the rope will cut into the snow-lip of the crevasse, often providing an insurpassable obstacle for normal prusik technique. There's a nifty way around this, but its not something you want to have to figure out while hanging in a crevasse!

It's not my intention to demotivate you, but 2 person glacier travel is serious business and I wouldn't want you to get into any nasty situations. On the other hand, it's a skill you couuld probably learn in a day, so maybe hiring a guide or having a more experience friend show you would be a great start.

Good luck and have fun,

Bart

It's not my start in such routes, I've done some in the Alps including attempting Mont Blanc twice (one summited). I'd gone without any rope but I prefered to ask before. I'm in doubt about which one to buy