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Mark Straub wrote:No, a beacon is not going to save me. I know that. I am very cautious, bordering on paranoid, about avalanche signs. Avoidance is the best answer. If I see any signs at all of potential powder or slab avalanches, I take very careful notice.

BUT...isn't it a good idea to err on the side of caution? As I said, I DON'T want to die out there!

-Mark

No offense intended, Mark. I think his point, and mine, was to avoid absolute reliance on something like a beacon. Sounds like you already know that there are many other precautions to take and are taking them. Problem is that in this particular forum we get so many people with posts like:

"I want to climb Everest this year and already have bought a treadmill and climbed Torreys Peak. What else do I need to do?"

...that my posts err on the side of caution. Cheers.

Mark Straub wrote:

As I said, I DON'T want to die out there!

-Mark

I've never met a person who said they were going to the mountains to die.

Can't a person die from other causes, such as smoking too much or having a vehicular
collision with a tree or an elk or something ...

The point is, we don't know who is going to die out there - period.

Recovering from achilles tendon surgery (sustained a complete tear a month ago at JT) and I've had time to reread the last 10 annual issues of the AAC's Accidents in North American Mountaineering. With regard to avalanches, it is striking in the reports how many "cautious" back country skiers and climbers had information (some directly from rangers) that avalanche conditions might exist, but rationalized away their concerns.

" It's better to die while living than to live while dying. "

- Anonymous

I'm healing fine, training again (climbing and cycling) but it will be a while until i'm 100%. I'll be headed to AK in Feb for the Iditarod on a bike anyway

A friend just shattered both his ankles ice climbing...on toprope. The rope stretch caused him to take a ground fall, and he is in a wheelchair now. He says he will not be climbing for at least 6 weeks.

-Mark

lcarreau wrote:" It's better to die while living than to live while dying. " - Anonymous

"I intend to live forever, or die trying. " -- Groucho Marx.

Mark Straub wrote:A friend just shattered both his ankles ice climbing...on toprope. The rope stretch caused him to take a ground fall, and he is in a wheelchair now. He says he will not be climbing for at least 6 weeks.

-Mark

Ouch. I wish him luck. I never knew how bad ankles were to hurt until October. Tell him to hang in there, it does get better.

lcarreau wrote:

Mark Straub wrote:

As I said, I DON'T want to die out there!

-Mark

I've never met a person who said they were going to the mountains to die.

Then you never met Guy Waterman. Ahead of his time, for sure.

lcarreau wrote:I've never met a person who said they were going to the mountains to die.

There are far worse places. In fact, I wouldn't mind it. Just not now, or any time soon.

Dingus Milktoast wrote:The 'real' reason you need a beacon is there are many potential partners who will have nothing to do with you till you have one.

So you can save THEM, should the need arise.

I know plenty of ski mountaineers who will not partner up sans beacon.

Buy a used one mate. I bet you could score an older DTS TRacker for $50 if you tried. Ask at local ski clubs, etc. Hell, someone just might give you one.

DMT

So you don´t rate them?

Some TV channels (Canadian and American) are showing a lot of documentaries and news films featuring avalanches.
They show skiers, sledders, roads and trains, and even villages getting destroyed.
They show how to test the snow structure, and also plenty of park service guys shooting the slopes.

I'd say that this outreach for public awareness should promote a healthy attitude for most citizens.

So my wife (who does not join me in the mountains) is warning me to be careful, and don't get stupid. So I've attended AV classes, and I bring back snapshots of the terrain I've visited.

lcarreau wrote:" It's better to die while living than to live while dying. "

- Anonymous

But it's much, much better to get home for dinner, after a great day of good fun.

Mark Straub wrote:A friend just shattered both his ankles ice climbing...on toprope. The rope stretch caused him to take a ground fall, and he is in a wheelchair now. He says he will not be climbing for at least 6 weeks.

-Mark

Belayer/climber error, no excuse for that scenario, IMHO. Duel Darwin award. To bad they don't have a rope stretch electronic device.

Mark, I just looked at your profile pic. Do you guy's always Top-rope on the wrong end of the rope?

6 weeks for shattered ankles, that is some quick healing, all the best of luck to your friend. OUCH

I don't know s-it about Avi-conditions except this, Sierra Cement, about 2 weeks old and icy, with 24 inches of Powder on top is ready to kill you.

edit 1 time to make it funny.

Guyzo wrote:

Mark Straub wrote:A friend just shattered both his ankles ice climbing...on toprope. The rope stretch caused him to take a ground fall, and he is in a wheelchair now. He says he will not be climbing for at least 6 weeks.

-Mark

Belayer/climber error, no excuse for that scenario, IMHO. Duel Darwin award. To bad they don't have a rope stretch electronic device.

Mark, I just looked at your profile pic. Do you guy's always Top-rope on the wrong end of the rope?

#1 on both points. Been wondrin' the same thing(s) since I saw them.