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Hi All,

Over the past few years most of the physical challenges I've embarked upon have been with one eye on the Eiger- Mittellegi ridge climb. The goal is for a 2015 /16 date with the difficulty and danger of the route being well respected and planned for. Info from this site and many others have been invaluable. Now it's time to draw specific experiences from others that have climbed this route?

In 2014 we hope to complete the Torment-forbidden traverse in Cascades,WA. This objective as well as the Eiger climb will be embarked upon with the expertise of a professional guide.

My question:-
Many variables... but how difficult is the Mittellegi route, really? Would the TFT be a good comparison based on overall difficulty and objective danger.
Im hoping to hear from those that have done both climbs mentioned... or similar comparable routes in North America that compare to the Mittellegi route. If you feel other routes would provide ideal 'practise' then I'd love to read that as well.



Many thanks in advance!

Like any other climb in the high alps, it depends on conditions.

When dry and in "perfect" conditions, the Mittellegi is not all that hard - mid to easy 5th class with fixed ropes on the parts that would be more difficult without them.

But - you should go prepared to climb mid 5th class on ice and snow in crampons..... When I did the the route, we climbed wearing crampons from very shortly above the hut well over the top and most of the way down the West Flank.

I have done many climbs in both N America and the Alps - I have done no climbs in N America that compare in overall difficulty and commitment to the Mittilegi - it is big and long.

For comparison in N America - do not compare to granite / metamorphic rock routes in the Cascades. Think instead of long routes on limestone / other sedimentary rock in the Canadian Rockies. Think big routes on Temple, etc.

Of course, if you go with a guide it reduces the challenge considerably.

Thanks Fred!

Conditions will definitely not be taken lightly.
Grindelwald is far away and not cheap, but I have no issues surrendering my goal if the mountain is the state it was in when you climbed it.
If that was the case I'd settle for a nice glacial hike up the Monch and Jungfrau... then set my sights elsewhere for future climbs.

Good conditioning, determination and perseverance I'm not short of, but regular experience on terrain that you have in your back-yard is where I struggle. Living in the flat lands of Ontario, Canada means that I get to tackle one (maybe 2) big hills a year. In July\Aug it will be the TFT - maybe also Sharkfin Tower.
Good to know that even the TFT is no comparison to what the Mittellegi ridge would involve.
This is the blunt truth that I need.
I'll check out Mt Temple in the Canadian Rockies

Much appreciated

You may find this contribution by an SP member of interest.

http://www.summitpost.org/eiger-a-trip-on-the-knife-edge-tr-movie/602829

Thanks dadndave,

I've read this post several times over the past 2-3 years... and similar scarier logs similar to it.

I'm 38 years old, getting older and this damn mountain keeps nagging at back if my mind.

Good to see I'm not alone on that