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Advice on making progress mountaineering

PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2016 3:29 am
by marctjason
I am currently cycling around the world but I am keen on learning and getting more experience in mountaineering. In the past I have done some walking in the Austrian alps upto 3200m and I took a Austrian alpine club mountaineering course. I've done the spaghetti tour in the Swiss-Italian alps upto 4600m and most recently I've climbed mount damavand in Iran (5670m). From Iran I intend on cycling through Turkmenistan (mid July), Uzbekistan (late July), Tajikistan (July/August), Kyrgyzstan (August/September), Kazakhstan (September/October), and into China (October/November), then Mongolia (November) and back into China (December). After that I'll be in Japan from December until February/March.

I'd really love to get more experience mountaineering whilst on my trip. I guess I need suggestions for non technical climbs but I'm always willing to learn. I want to progress to higher climbs also. I am willing to sacrifice altitude to learn more technical stuff or I am looking for "easy" 6000+m climbs. Easy is in quotes because I understand I should not underestimate any mountain. I just mean easy for a 6000+m climb.

I don't carry a huge amount of gear but what I have is good. I have some hiking boots, socks, waterproofs, thermals, headlamp, buffs, down jacket, tent, sleeping bag (-20°C). I am also on a budget. I am willing to put in the work to get costs down.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Re: Advice on making progress mountaineering

PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2016 4:27 am
by Scott
I want to progress to higher climbs also. I am willing to sacrifice altitude to learn more technical stuff or I am looking for "easy" 6000+m climbs. Easy is in quotes because I understand I should not underestimate any mountain. I just mean easy for a 6000+m climb.


Chachani, in Peru is a probably the best first 6000+ meter climb that I can think of. It's fairly easy and inexpensive to get to and is next to a major city (Arequipa). It also has no technical difficulties.

Re: Advice on making progress mountaineering

PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2016 4:31 am
by marctjason
Thanks Scott . That's helpful. Although I won't be in Peru for another year or 2 but I'll certainly look it up when I'm near by

Re: Advice on making progress mountaineering

PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2016 7:33 am
by marctjason
Are the mountains in Kyrgyzstan too technical for a novice such as me?

Re: Advice on making progress mountaineering

PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 6:03 pm
by matteo_b
i think there are many peaks in kyrgyzstan that are very easy but are above 6000m. Check pik lenin area and see what i mean... there should be plenty of mountain like that in shape, but smaller.


My only advice is, since you have limited gear with you, choose a warm country where there is few chance of bad weather.. so you can climb a 6000m peak with a lighter gear. Ladakh might be the right place, even pamir or something like that.. karakoram is very warm and 6000m peaks requires not much of heavy clothing, but most of them are very sharp and technical.. i don't know any easy mountain (except sonia peak and mountains in that area).
i think also tibet (just like ladakh) has a lot of mountains that are very very easy and reach 6000m. On google earth you see plenty of them everywhere.


i think most peaks in karakoram, pamir and kyrgyzstan has glaciers to be crossed or requires you to be roped up.. but i'm sure in tibet and ladakh you can find 6000m peaks that requires almost nothing!
There are also rocky mountains above 6000m with no glacier, but often it's because they are very, very steep...
To keep the cost down, consider to buy some second hand crampons and ice axe.. and you can find some good cheap harness for ski-alp, that are very very small and lightweight.. just in case

Re: Advice on making progress mountaineering

PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 6:22 pm
by marctjason
Thanks Matteo that's great. Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I appreciate it

Re: Advice on making progress mountaineering

PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 7:50 pm
by kevin trieu
The reality is that bicycle touring and high altitude mountaineering (above 6,000m) aren't compatible. Your biggest hurdle is acquiring the appropriate gear for the 6,000m peaks. There are an abundance of peaks in Central Asia to climb but if you want anything 6,000m or higher then you have to rethink your strategy. You could possibly rent all the gear but then the costs will add up and you aren't sure if the rental gear is up to par. Gear for 6,000m peaks for Central Asia can be very specific. You need appropriate boots, jacket, tents, ropes and last but not least, a capable partner. I'll be doing the same thing as you, bicycle touring down the west coast of Africa and try to climb some peaks. Needless to say the peaks in Africa and a lot lower and can be done with just hiking boots. Best of luck!