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mcg11 wrote:... Still trying to digest all the options and read through the route descriptions. Any thoughts on what conditions might be like on Grunge Couloir on North Timpanogos in early December?

Thank you!
M

That early in the season, it's not likely the Grunge Couloir will provide the snow conditions that will approximate firm snow or alpine ice. The early season snowpack is typically unconsolidated and granular. You might get a crust on top, but it's usually only semi-suportable which would be crappy for the conditions you're trying to find.

Your best bet is something with a southern aspect that will melt and freeze during a warm spell and gain a nice, thick, firm, supportable surface. For those conditions in December, you're probably looking at South Face of Superior (right up the middle, or Pinball Alley), or other chutes along that south facing Cottonwood Ridge (i.e. White Pine Chutes, Tanner's Gulch, Maybird Couloir, Lisa Falls Couloir). The west face of Timp, which is actually facing southwest, could also be good from all the sun and wind on the upper slopes.

January always seems to provide a 2 week thaw that creates firm snow and you'll have a deeper, more stable, snowpack by then. Just food for thought.

marauders wrote:That early in the season, it's not likely the Grunge Couloir will provide the snow conditions...

That's helpful. Thanks. M

mcg11 wrote:... Still trying to digest all the options and read through the route descriptions. Any thoughts on what conditions might be like on Grunge Couloir on North Timpanogos in early December?

Thank you!
M

trackhead's pic of a novemvber ski descent of Grunge.

fowweezer wrote:The main chute on Baldy would also be a good early-season climb. It's really quick, it gets plenty of snow cover early, and it was pretty firm when Brian and I did it like 2 years ago. We did it November 24 of 2007 and it was really good....exactly what you're looking for (though not nearly as steep as Grunge or others).

Don't go too late or you'll be in soft snow with skiers coming down.

word on that one B.

FortMental wrote:

ExcitibleBoy wrote:In my opinion you would be better served by climbing steep waterfall ice. Once you are leading WI3 or harder, 50 degree ice will seem very casual.

-Baloney.

It might be true for the first 50 feet or even 100 feet....not after 1,500 feet of simul-climbing with a pack on, and one long, one short tool.

oh contrare:

The Great White Icicle has some great pitches you can easily rap off that are around 50 degrees.http://www.summitpost.org/route/248606/the-great-white-icicle.html

Or, take this pic of another route as an example. It is a pic of ice that is bare now but at some points in the year its snow, why? because its near 50 degrees which is prime avi terrain:

fowweezer wrote:What is that on? It looks familiar.

Its on the twins, and I think it is also known as the Cleavage Couloir

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/wasatch_range/wasatch_alpine_areas/105890624

d_shorb wrote:

Who's up for climbing this then skiing Pipeline?

PocketsOfBlue wrote:Who's up for climbing this then skiing Pipeline?

That would be a fine combo. Drop me a line when interested.

Earlier in the season I posted this topic for advice on early season climbs in the SLC area for 40/50 snow/ice. I didn't end up making it out there because conditions were poor but I'm going to be in SLC this weekend. Any suggestions for good climbs for current conditions for 40/50 degree snow/ice?

Thanks!