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I'm thinking about heading out to the Canadian Rockies this summer to do a bunch of technical routes in the AI3 and 5.7-5.8 range. If possible, I'd like to take the opportunity to try doing my first Grade IV route.

The routes that seem within my level are: N Face of Robson and E Ridge of Temple. Are there other IV routes no harder than AI3 and 5.7-5.8 I should be considering?

From a casual glance, it would seem to be that Robson's NF would be easier to bail off if things go south (just rappel off V-threads)?

robson is notorious for bad weather.

I'd suggest lowering your sights a bit if this is your first time in the Rockies. Commitment grades there are way sandbag compared to the lower 48. Robson NF is a serious undertaking. It doesn't compare with Temple's east ridge.

I agree with the advice above. Start much smaller until you get some local experience. Conditions and timing are everything.

Robson North face is huge in scale and may not be safely climbable in any given season. The conditions can vary from bottom to top and the safe time window can be very short.
It rarely is all ice that could be rapelled with V threads and that would take forever anyway.
It is sometimes climbed at night so climbers can top out before noon before the snow goes soft.
Do some more research and maybe start out with a guide.

I'm going to be out there for 2 weeks so will definitely start by climbing some smaller Grade III routes (Fay NF, Athabasca NF) that should be within my ability, and will have some time to wait for a decent weather window and conditions if we decide to do a bigger climb.

I've never done a route long enough to require a bivy en-route, and would like to do something that requires this. Any other suggestions for long and technically moderate (even if only on paper) apart from Robson and Temple? FYI I was considering doing Liberty Ridge on Rainier (except that I can't get away for May/June when it's in season), so something of similar difficulty and length would be ideal.

Read the most recent issue of Alpinist before investing any time in Robson. I'd also track down a copy of Sean Dougherty's Canadian Rockies Select or something like that. A pretty good reference given your query.

fatdad wrote:Read the most recent issue of Alpinist before investing any time in Robson.

^^^This iz korrekt.

Robson always intrigued me, but after reading Blanchard's excellent article in A29, I think it just moved onto the NFW list.

fatdad wrote:Read the most recent issue of Alpinist before investing any time in Robson. I'd also track down a copy of Sean Dougherty's Canadian Rockies Select or something like that. A pretty good reference given your query.

+1

Watch out for the 5.9 A2's in there.

Thanks for the tips. Just ordered 'Selected Alpine', and will definitely take it step by step.

Either way I'm tempted to make the hike into Robson, camp at the Dome and see if there's a chance to try out the Kain Face. My enthusiasm for the NF evaporated when I realized the descent is down the Kain . Either way I'm wouldn't mind very much establishing my first annual attempt, and failure, on Robson.

Climbing in the Canadian Rockies can be a humbling experience. The rock quality, even on popular routes, can be quite poor when compared to the the Sierras or the CO rockies. The East Ridge of Edith Cavel, the Silver Horn on Athabasca and routes on EEOR or HaLing peak are great routes to ease into those magnificeint mountains.

E Ridge of Temple is a good option. You only need one day which makes weather questions easier to deal with. The route can be easily reversed with rappels at any point although it would be less fun once amongst the Black Towers. A fantastic route known for comparably good rock quality.