SummitPost.org

Hey everyone,

In a couple of days I'll be traveling to Jasper to take a glacier travel course and learn all the skills necessary to travel safely on a glacier, mountaineering, etc... After the course a couple of friends and myself want to put our skills to use and climb something. Originally we had Mt. Baker planned, but it seems that that won't work out now.

Does anyone know of some good climbs somewhere in B.C that would be a good starting point for beginners? Elevation isn't so important, 12K is our maximum at this point. Easy glaciers are a must, and generally low danger of avalanches or other hazards are also important things in our view.

Cheers.

Apex wrote:Hey everyone,

In a couple of days I'll be traveling to Jasper to take a glacier travel course and learn all the skills necessary to travel safely on a glacier, mountaineering, etc... After the course a couple of friends and myself want to put our skills to use and climb something. Originally we had Mt. Baker planned, but it seems that that won't work out now.

Does anyone know of some good climbs somewhere in B.C that would be a good starting point for beginners? Elevation isn't so important, 12K is our maximum at this point. Easy glaciers are a must, and generally low danger of avalanches or other hazards are also important things in our view.

Cheers.

Mount Athabasca since you will be pretty close to it.

Thanks,

How about in the Bugaboo region?

Apex wrote:Thanks,

How about in the Bugaboo region?

There is something for all levels in the Bugs plus amazing views. Eastpost Spire, Hounds Tooth, Brenta Spire all look to be good for beginners. Something with better access would be one of the many scrambles in the Rogers Pass area. Mount Begbie in the Revelstoke area also looks like a perfect day out in the mountains.

Thanks,

Does anyone know how difficult it would be to Solo Pigeon Spire? The page says that it is rated 5.4, and while I think I would feel confident soloing that, myself and partners have yet to experience large amounts of exposure, or alpine climbing for that matter, but we can all climb 5.9+ in the gym comfortably without problems.

I reckon the hardest part would be route-finding and such, dont wanna end up soloing some 5.11 moves by accident The rappels might also be tricky.

Just wanting to hear some other experiences on this spire before I tried something that is beyond our limit putting ourselves in danger.

ok I dont know about what the Pigeon solo is but I do know BC. Over 12? well that is nothing here. But the 11s and in Jasper - Edith Cavell east ridge but no glacier, Athabasca various routes but really no rock other than north face, there is Assiniboine, Mt Sir Doug or Donald both good choices, there is gee, while in Jasper - Mt Colin, um, heading down the Parkway - a billion choices. Beginners - well, mmh, Victoria, Hector, scrambles in the Lake Louise or Ohara are awesome, Rogers Pass - Youngs Peak, the Aslkun traverse, Tupper. And then, there is like just a billion other places and peaks beyond this area. If you are looking for glacier and the Parkway = which incidently is alberta and not bc mostly - try Hector or Aberdeen.

Apex wrote:Thanks,

Does anyone know how difficult it would be to Solo Pigeon Spire? The page says that it is rated 5.4, and while I think I would feel confident soloing that, myself and partners have yet to experience large amounts of exposure, or alpine climbing for that matter, but we can all climb 5.9+ in the gym comfortably without problems.

You're just asking for an epic bro.

Finished the Glacier course today. Talked to the guide, and he felt that we knew the skills necessary to be able to climb Athabasca via the A.A. route. Might not happen anymore, our car broke down. Fantastic course though, got to play around in the columbia icefield, jump into some crevasses, practice crevasse resue.

Needless to say, I'm hooked now.