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Icefields Parkway in Jan.

PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 5:16 pm
by bird
Thinking about an Ice Climbing trip to Icefields Parkway in late January. Am I asking for trouble? Will it be insanely cold then?

PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 5:45 pm
by Dow Williams
Warning: climbing waterfall ice can be inherently cold. In fact we prefer it. That being said, January is a fantastic time to be climbing on theIcefields Parkway. Enjoy.

PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:04 pm
by bird
There's cold ... And then there's stupid cold. Like below -10 f just is made for hanging out and drinking beer. IMO

PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:39 pm
by Dow Williams
I am usually pretty damn happy above minus 30C (-22F)....so yes, you might be uncomfortable to head up there in Jan.

PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:46 pm
by Bill Kerr
Hard to predict temperatures - any given day or week can be -30 to -40 C especially overnight lows but generally expect - 10 to -20C by late Jan early feb. Just need better equipment/clothes.

PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 11:39 pm
by bird
Thanks will keep that in mind...

PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 2:53 pm
by bird
Looks like we're headed to Canada.
What's the best place to stay for ice climbers?
Above dirtbag level (we all have jobs), but nothing fancy. Sort of like the Vic in Ouray...
Any suggestions?
Thanks!

PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 3:34 pm
by Steve Larson
The Rampart Creek hostel is the closest, though no showers, just a sauna. The Lake Louise Alpine Center (another HI hostel) is pretty plush, and only runs about $35/night/person.

PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 4:15 pm
by bird
Steve, (or anyone).
Is there a "main" hotel for climbers? Like the Vic in Ouray?

PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 4:43 pm
by Dow Williams
bird wrote:Steve, (or anyone).
Is there a "main" hotel for climbers? Like the Vic in Ouray?


No.....Banff and Lake Louise are in a National Park...think Aspen prices if you want a hotel. If you are not happy with the hostels, (Steve's suggestions being spot on-Rampart right next to ice, Lake Louise hostel great location as well), then your best option value wise is a furnished condo in Canmore. Several of those larger condo complexes are under pressure to cover expenses, much cheaper than a comparable hotel in the area. If staying in Canmore, you are actually much more centered for ice depending on conditions. We move around on ice all dependent on avalanche and weather conditions in general. The Ghost Wilderness has the safest ice as well as biggest selection of routes, like 100.....but requires a 4x4 and is remote, you need to know what you are doing. Canmore is located equally between the Ghost and Kananaskis Ice versus the Parkway Ice with local ice on MT. Rundle, etc.

PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:11 pm
by Steve Larson
A couple years ago a partner and I rented a furnished condo in Canmore, as Dow suggests. More expensive than the hostel, but still a good deal. Also private, quiet, etc. The furthest we drove was out to Field (close to 1.5 hours), and that's about as far as I'd want to go. Like Dow said, you're likely to be constrained by conditions no matter where you plop your gear down, so be prepared to be flexible.

PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 7:50 pm
by bird
Thanks Dow & Steve;
Your comments are helpful. Here's some more details...6 of us have stayed at the Vic in Ouray for 5 years. We're planning something new. We can lead 3 and "easy" 4's and we are just looking to get as much climbing in over a week, safe, fun, share a few beers as well, etc.
Since we are new to the area, we probably won't want to spend to much time exploring (since it will all be new to us) vs, just getting as much climbing time in as possible. We have jobs, but want to keep things reasonably affordable...
Given all that, what do you suggest?
Thanks again
Eric

PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 8:40 pm
by rhyang
Eric -- the place Steve is referring to is the Banff Boundary Lodge, in Harvie Heights, between Canmore and Banff -

http://www.banffboundarylodge.com/

The BBL was recommended by another ice partner who has been up that way a few times. We went in March 2007. I believe we had the Joe Josephson guide to the Canadian Rockies -

http://www.amazon.com/Waterfall-Ice-Cli ... 0921102682

Stuff we climbed :

- Louise Falls
- some random WI4's at Haffner Creek (same day as Louise Falls actually)
- Professor Falls
- Carlsberg Column

I led the 3's and some easier 4's on Professor Falls, and Steve led the harder 4's. Peter (aka pvalchev on SP) led Carlsberg. I think there was a thread way back when I posted asking for recommendations, and folks like Dow and CClaude responded, but it must have gotten purged. I can PM you a list of stuff they recommended to us if you want.

PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 10:15 pm
by bird
Great Stuff Robert

PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 2:25 am
by Dow Williams
I have climbed 100 multi pitch ice routes in the area, Peter probably has as well. Use this main summitpost page I compiled for folks like yourself. Location and grade are on one easy to follow page. Most folks tell me it is quite helpful in their planning. I guess it is as it flows to the top of Google when you search Canadian Rockies Ice.

Like Steve and I have warned you a bit....you have to pick various locations and route options due to the conditions present when you arrive. Based on your skill set and objective(s), I recommend basing out of Canmore which is the most centered of all towns for ice. If you have specific questions about routes, fire away.

Professors and Cascade are easy routes as well as easily accessible. Should be two to start on for sure, as long as avalanche conditions are appropriate for each. If you have bad avalanche conditions, you will be forced to explore the Ghost Wilderness routes so you might consider renting a 4x4 as part of your flexibility and planning. Good Luck. Look forward to seeing your trip report.

Canadian Rockies Ice