Kiefer Thomas wrote:I figure with a acclimation trip/gear cache up to 14K camp, we could climb the Rib in a version in between expedition and alpine. .
Go to at least 17K for acclimation if you want to move alpine. We first summited via WB and then did the WR. After that I did not even remember that we we actually at altitude on the WR. Takes an iron will to do it though.
Kiefer Thomas wrote:I guess my main concern on this route is not really the route itself...it's the approach. What did you guys think of trekking up the NE Fork? I haven't even been up it (NE Fork) yet and it scares the shit out of me. How 'safe' would you say your camps were?
Well, the route should be you concern as well...
But anyway, why would you camp in the NE fork? Go from 7.8K to the 11K camp at the base of the route in one go, on a cold night, without prior snowfall. To give you an idea: we started around 2am and were at the 11K camp around 10am. There was no boot track through the NE fork. Snowsoes were essential. The upper icefall on the NE fork was a scary and improbable maze and we had to find a path through it but it was walking, not climbing. The 11K camp at the base of the route is safe and utterly beautiful. We were fairly fit but far from supeatheltes and not that young. Went pretty light - I'd say 40-50 lbs packs. But wallspeck is of course right, it's a gamble so stack your odds in your favor.
Kiefer Thomas wrote:That rock pitch also intrigues me. It would be a nice touch/alternative to that snow clouloir to climbers right.
I don't remember a colouir to climbers right, just a loaded snow slope that was probably too dangerous to climb. That rock pitch was probably on route - I saw a piece of old webbing in one place.