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Chris Simpson wrote: Have not read this yet as it just came out - http://news.nationalgeographic.com/2015 ... as-guides/

Hmm. I think the 'more-bottled-O2, sooner', is a major factor that anyone should take into account when judging the success of Alpenglow's methods. In fact, from a clinical perspective, it totally muddies the waters for studying the pre-acclimatisation tents. How do you discern where the benefit, if any, came from?

But either way, if people want to do it, want to pay for it, and they're not sending more Sherpas through the icefall to achieve it, then I say good luck to them. There are worse things happening on Everest every year than this.

Unfortunately, Denali has claimed its first life this season. Seems he was solo. No signs of physical trauma. Anyhow, R.I.P. Heraldo Javier Callupan.

http://www.nps.gov/dena/learn/news/deceasedsoloist.htm

Just read through your post.

When I was on Denali the first time, there was a group of 4 Austrians with us on the mountain. There were 25 people on the mountain in total, only 4 Americans (late 70s, times have changed quite a bit since then). The Austrians ran up the West Butt in 6 days from the BC. They all were very strong, one of them was Wolfgang Nairz of (later) Himalayan fame. We met them at the 17k camp after they returned from the summit. Two of the guys had severe frostbite on their hands and all of them said it was because of the speed of their ascent and lack of proper acclimatization. They were totally shot, physically. Luckily, the weather was stable and they staggered down without further problems.

I cannot imagine going up there for the first time on a non-guided trip and thinking I could do it in less than 10 days to the top in perfect weather. You might be a horse but that mountain is nothing to play with or mess with.

Thinking of speed while you are on a first trip to Denali seems to me totally foolish idea.

Think about reaching the top in good shape, with reserves and in safety.

If you abide by the 1,000' a day rule, you will do it safely in 10-13 days. That is the way.

There is a huge difference between Denali in April and the same peak in June. One is an arctic experience, the other just a very cold one.

When you get back, you can adjust you thinking about any future trips based on your just concluded performance.

BTW I base this on my three trips to Denali. West Butt, North W Buttress to North Peak and attempt on a new route on East Face.

Jesus Malverde wrote:. . .
Gear and food planning are fine (and important), but they won't mean a hill of beans if you (or your team mates) can't get you out of a crevasse.
You can have the best gear, best food, fullest belly, best weather on a trip, but it's all forgotten when you are staring down into frozen death (not a fun place).
I'd just like to emphasize EB's Big Fear, because it's mine too.
If you are going with a small team (say, just two on a rope), I would practice, practice, practice crevasse rescue. Hell, practice regardless of how many are on your rope or in your group.
. . .

Amen to that!

And how are you planning to get out of a crevasse while ending up climbing (and falling) solo?

asmrz,

We did not pre acclimatize like we wanted. Went up Rainier a week earlier than planned & my local 10k ft mountain was overrun by Amgen bike races. The speedy mindset is out the door.

Chris Simpson wrote:asmrz,

We did not pre acclimatize like we wanted. Went up Rainier a week earlier than planned & my local 10k ft mountain was overrun by Amgen bike races. The speedy mindset is out the door.

Best of luck. Let us know how it goes.

Thanks EB. Appreciate the input.