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Critique my Canadian Rockies Itinerary

PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 5:50 am
by triyoda
Heading up to Banff and Jasper for about 10 days in late August. Going solo. Here is the list of climbs I am planning. My primary resource has been Scrambles in Canadian Rockies Guidebook

Mt. Lady McDonald
Mt. Wilcox
Mt. Willington (overnight)
Mt. Edith
Mt. Temple
Mt. Sarbach

Re: Critique my Canadian Rockies Itinerary

PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 3:55 pm
by ExcitableBoy
If you are going to the Rockies, might as go big:
North Face, North Twin
North Face, Mt Alberta
Greenwod-Locke, Mt Temple
Andromeda Strain, Mt Andromeda
Grand Central Couloir, Mt Kitchner (for a cool down)

Re: Critique my Canadian Rockies Itinerary

PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 4:33 pm
by seano
That's a pretty ambitious list to solo, EB...

triyoda -- The only ones I've done on your list are Willingdon and Temple. The former is just a talus slog, but the approach is beautiful and remote, a nice break from the Banff/Jasper tourist zoo. The latter is pretty short by the trail, so you might want to add something on like Mount Eiffel (haven't done it).

If you want to go a bit south, Kane has some nice peaks in the Kananaskis area. I recently did Smuts, which has unusually good rock for the Rockies. You can click around the map on my site for some other ideas.

Re: Critique my Canadian Rockies Itinerary

PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 4:49 pm
by ExcitableBoy
seano wrote:That's a pretty ambitious list to solo, EB...

Not for you =)

Re: Critique my Canadian Rockies Itinerary

PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 5:04 pm
by seano
I know my limits, and the Kain Face is about as far as I'm willing to go. I thought about the Japanese Route on Alberta, but I was getting tired of Rockies death-choss.

Re: Critique my Canadian Rockies Itinerary

PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 6:59 pm
by Old School WB
Triyoda

Pretty good list; EB and seano are crazy hard core dudes, but I like your list. I do a lot (mostly before children) of alpine rock, ice and scrambling; before the dawn of time I use to do a ton of backpacking. Haven't done Sarbach, but I hear it is great. We have been having the driest and warmest summer in a long time, so if the weather holds, you will have very dry conditions, great for scrambling.

Below are suggestions and ideas I have provided to other summitposters.

I think the categories are helpful? I limited myself to a top 10 personally enjoyed list to try and be concise and showcase much of the wilderness landscapes, rugged terrain, classic mountaineering and beauty of the Canadian Rockies. All routes and summits suggested I have done.

Top ten most scenic area/region
1. Columbia Icefield Area (Jasper NP)
2. Little Yoho Valley (yes over Lake O’Hara) (Yoho NP)
3. Lake O’Hara (Yoho NP)
4. Moraine Lake/Larch Valley (Banff NP)
5. Berg Lake (Mt. Robson PP)
6. Magog Lake/Mt. Assiniboine core area (Mt. Assiniboine PP)
7. Tonquin Valley (Astoria River)(Jasper NP)
8. Fryatt Valley/Geraldine Lakes (Jasper NP)
9. Floe Lake (Kootenay NP)
10. Upper Kananaskis River Valley (above lakes to North Kananaskis Pass and to Haig Glacier)

Top 10 snow/ice/glacier routes
1. Mt. Victoria. South-East Ridge (moderate rock/snow ridge, ultra classic)(Banff NP)
2. Mt. Lefroy. West Face (moderate snow/ice face)(Banff NP)
3. Mt. King George. East Face, Congdon/McNab Couloir (steep ice gully)(BC)
4. Mt. Athabasca. Silverhorn Route (steep ice/snow)(Jasper NP)
5. Mt. Columbia. East Face. (moderate glacier, skied)(Jasper NP)
6. Stanley Peak. North Face (steep ice/snow)(Kootenay NP)
7. Resplendent Mtn. North West Glacier (moderate glacier)(Robson PP)
8. Mt. Wooley. North Ridge (moderate glacier)(Jasper NP)
9. Mt. Diadem. South-East Face (moderate/steep glacier)(Jasper NP)
10. Mt. Kitchener. East Ridge (glacier travel, but mostly a choss rock route, but fun) (Jasper NP)

Top 10 alpine rock routes
1. North Ridge of Mt. Assiniboine (5.4 very easy but ultra classic)(Banff NP)
2. Mt. Louis. Kain route (5.6, ultra classic, mostly great rock )(Banff NP)
3. Eisenhower Tower (5.5, great rock )(Banff NP)
4. Any route on “Yamnuska” (Mt. John Laurie) is great. “Direttissima” 5.8+ awesome route.
5. Ha Ling Peak. North-East Face (5.6, classic route above Canmore)
6. Mt. Colin. South-West Face Direct (5.7, loose but fun)(Jasper NP)
7. Mt. Deltaform. North-West Ridge (5.5, high alpine, long and tough for grade)(Banff NP)
8. Mt. Blane. North-West Ridge (5.6, fun ridge)(Peter Lougheed PP, Kananaskis)
9. Tower of Babel. McKay Route. (5.7, good rock)(Banff NP)
10. Mt. Indefatigable. South Face, “Joy” (5.5 easy face/corner)(Peter Lougheed PP, Kananaskis)

Top 10 scrambles (*list bias to Kananaskis since close to home)
1. Mt. Smuts. (Peter Lougheed PP, Kananaskis)
2. Mt. Lougheed. (Kananaskis)
3. Wapta Mtn. (Yoho NP)
4. Mt. Temple. (Banff NP)
5. Mt. McArthur. (Yoho NP)
6. Mt. Putnik. (Peter Lougheed PP, Kananaskis)
7. Mt. Arethusa. (Peter Lougheed PP, Kananaskis)
8. Mt. Carnarvon. (Yoho NP)
9. Mt. Lyautey. (Peter Lougheed PP, Kananaskis)
10. Mt. James Walker. (Peter Lougheed PP, Kananaskis)

Of the 10 listed scenic region/area, all except Floe Lake, have many climbing opportunities. The classic snow/ice/rock climbs around Lake Louise/Lake O’Hara are awesome.

Re: Critique my Canadian Rockies Itinerary

PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 9:53 pm
by beean
Do something like Sparrowhawk or Commonwealth Peak instead of Lady Mac. You can't come to the Rockies and not visit Kananaskis proper.