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Planning to attempt the west buttress route on Denali, May/June 2017.

I am looking for solid climbing partners with experience at high altitude and long expeditions. Ideally we would form a team of 4 climbers and use a base package from one of the companies in the area.

My prior experience includes Aconcagua, Lenin, Elbrus, Mont Blanc and some more peaks as well as a mountaineering course and crevasse rescue.

If interested please Email me at tamir_yuval@yahoo.com and we can see if we match.

Hi,

It has been a while since my last trip to Alaska, so things may have changed, but there were no companies supplying logistics to Denali, only fully guided trips. You will have to make the arrangements yourself.

You will have to:
- Book a flight to Anchorage, AK (Once in the US, Alaska Airlines is your best bet. Maybe fly into Seattle, and then on to Anchorage)
- Mail your stove to your air taxi service ahead of you (can't take it on the plane)
- Buy groceries in Anchorage
- Book a round trip shuttle from Anchorage to Talkeetna (van, train, small plane)
- Book a round trip air taxi from Talkeeta to the Kahiltna International Airport
- Buy fuel vouchers from your air taxi once in Talkeetna (can't take fuel on the air taxi)
- Visit the Ranger's station to pick up your clean mountain can (portable toilet) and receive the mandatory pre-climb presentation/lecture.
- Arrange for accommodations in Talkeetna pre and post climb.

I highly recommend booking your air taxi service with Talkeetna Air Taxi. They provide free pre and post climb accommodations.

Best of luck,

EB

All of what EB said, especially the recommendation for TAT. You're also going to need a climbing permit/registration.

https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/registrationinfo.htm

96avs01 wrote:All of what EB said, especially the recommendation for TAT. You're also going to need a climbing permit/registration.

https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/registrationinfo.htm

Good call. This needs to be done some time in advance, 2 months as I recall. Plus a bunch of money. I think a simple Google search is the best way to find transportation from Anchorage to Talkeetna. There used to be a couple of van services, not sure if they are still in business, and last I checked had gotten really expensive. The train may be a better option or a small plane even.

I agree with most of what EB mentions however I would never recommend TAT...Sheldon Air is the only way to go. Just trust me on that

Matt Lemke wrote:I agree with most of what EB mentions however I would never recommend TAT...Sheldon Air is the only way to go. Just trust me on that

I've flown with TAT for three separate trips and never had anything but good experiences with them. I've flown with other air services and they are just fine too, as long as you are only flying to KIA or the Ruth Mountain House and you don't mind spending extra for a motel pre and post climb. In many cases, TAT is the ONLY choice, dependent upon where you are flying into (Kachatna Spires, Hayes Range, Thunder Glacier, Route Canal Glacier, West Fork Ruth Glacier, etc.). Plus the free digs pre and post climb. You stated 'Just trust you on that', but would you mind explaining the reason for your recommendation against TAT? If you are not comfortable posting online please consider sending me a PM. Thanks!

Yeah, actually Sheldon flies almost anywhere within landing possibility in the Alaska Range now, and are the cheapest option of the three main air services in Talkeetna. They provide free lodging before and after your trip in their hanger and have the nice advantage of being the original flight shuttle service to the Alaska Range. It's such a cool experience, where TAT thinks of their passengers more of a number and are more focused on the tour rides since that's where the real money is at in their minds.

Sheldon has their own camp at Denali base camp separate from users of TAT and the other flight services for various reasons I'll leave out, but it's nice because you get to hang out with more people climbing less popular routes and get some insight on the climbing, rather than the masses marching up Denali's standard route. Their base camp attendants are also really awesome to chat with.

Thanks Matt. I purposefully sold my AK kit so I would never be tempted to go back, and when I was actively climbing in the range, TAT was the only choice for many destinations. Another, cheaper choice that flies to the same locations WITH free lodging can only be a good thing for climbers.

purposefully sold my AK kit so I would never be tempted to go back

Why don't you want to go back?

Scott wrote:

purposefully sold my AK kit so I would never be tempted to go back

Why don't you want to go back?

Got tired of spending all my vacation time stuck in a tent on a glacier in a whiteout. I've climbed half a dozen significant mountains/routes in AK, some I regard as the best ascents of my life, but there is a lot of the world I still want to see, a lot of it a lot warmer. My next big trip will to be the Andes, before it all melts. Most likely to Bolivia, because a mountain guide friend who has guided all over the world said it was his favorite. Big mountains, generally better weather than other big ranges, close to big cities, stable government....

Wanna go to Bolivia with me in July EB? I'm planning to go!

Matt Lemke wrote:Wanna go to Bolivia with me in July EB? I'm planning to go!

I do! I do! I haven't done too much research about what would be cool and technical there, seems like there are three main areas. I was going to tap some friends' brains who have guided in the area and get some recommendations.

Thank you all for your input!
Can anyone please explain to me if I need skis of snowshoes for the lower part on Denali or is it fine walking with Spantik boots from the beginning...
I have no prior experience walking with either although I know how to ski downhill.
We are a 2 man team at the moment.

yuval wrote:Thank you all for your input!
Can anyone please explain to me if I need skis of snowshoes for the lower part on Denali or is it fine walking with Spantik boots from the beginning...
I have no prior experience walking with either although I know how to ski downhill.
We are a 2 man team at the moment.

I've always taken skis to the Alaska Range, however, if I were to do Denali again I would most certainly take snow shoes, unless you wear ski boots and plan on skiing as part of your trip. We only used floatation for the first two days, to the 11k camp, from there it was too steep and icy to ski. Skiing with a pack and a sled is a stupid joke, although I saw some folks do it successfully, again wearing ski boots.

Luggage fees have become ridiculous, I used to be able to check two 70 pound bags and with a smile and a wink the girl behind the check out counter would check the ski bag for free. No longer. I would get those MSR plastic snowshoes, which will easily fit inside one of your duffle bags.