Climbing Cordillera Blanca this summer
Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2016 2:30 pmUPDATED to include a bit more information -
I'm currently seeking both partners and advice regarding a trip to the cordillera blanca. In a nutshell, I've quit my job and will be heading out on a yearlong trip to climb until next year. I'll be starting in May with two weeks in the Cascades (including some quality time with the Alpine Institute folks), and then spending June in Colorado getting some altitude training and visiting the RMNP. My ideal climb has a bit of a technical component, whether it be rock or ice. I've done Alpine climbing in New Zealand before, and I'm comfortable leading rock and Alpine Ice up to WI3. Obviously, if you are interested in climbing together, happy to share more info!
I was originally planning on just booking a guided trip to hit Alpamayo and Artesonraju, but after reading some of the amazing trip reports and info from SP, I've decided it would be a lot more interesting and rewarding to go on my own. The idea is to spend a full month in Peru. I'd like to do Ursus or Vallanaraju as an acclimatization climb, and then explore Tocllaraju, Quitaraju or Chopicalqui. With the right partner, I'd also love to explore climbing Alpamayo or Artesonraju, or even something like the Huascaran shield. Open as well to do some of the more ambitious objectives by hooking with a local guide for that targeted period (@$150/200 per day for Alpamayo and Artensoraju, it should be quite doable).
Since I'm on the road for the year, I'll be bringing sufficient gear for the party (e.g., tent, ropes, a complete rack) in case that makes a difference. I also grew up in Colombia, so I can help navigate the local environment regarding logistics, burros, etc., and in fact I've already linked with a couple of Peruvian logistics folks in Huaraz to get us going.
If you are planning on being in the area or have done in the past and can share some advice, I'd love to hear from you.
I'm currently seeking both partners and advice regarding a trip to the cordillera blanca. In a nutshell, I've quit my job and will be heading out on a yearlong trip to climb until next year. I'll be starting in May with two weeks in the Cascades (including some quality time with the Alpine Institute folks), and then spending June in Colorado getting some altitude training and visiting the RMNP. My ideal climb has a bit of a technical component, whether it be rock or ice. I've done Alpine climbing in New Zealand before, and I'm comfortable leading rock and Alpine Ice up to WI3. Obviously, if you are interested in climbing together, happy to share more info!
I was originally planning on just booking a guided trip to hit Alpamayo and Artesonraju, but after reading some of the amazing trip reports and info from SP, I've decided it would be a lot more interesting and rewarding to go on my own. The idea is to spend a full month in Peru. I'd like to do Ursus or Vallanaraju as an acclimatization climb, and then explore Tocllaraju, Quitaraju or Chopicalqui. With the right partner, I'd also love to explore climbing Alpamayo or Artesonraju, or even something like the Huascaran shield. Open as well to do some of the more ambitious objectives by hooking with a local guide for that targeted period (@$150/200 per day for Alpamayo and Artensoraju, it should be quite doable).
Since I'm on the road for the year, I'll be bringing sufficient gear for the party (e.g., tent, ropes, a complete rack) in case that makes a difference. I also grew up in Colombia, so I can help navigate the local environment regarding logistics, burros, etc., and in fact I've already linked with a couple of Peruvian logistics folks in Huaraz to get us going.
If you are planning on being in the area or have done in the past and can share some advice, I'd love to hear from you.