SummitPost.org

I'm thinking you PNW folks? EB perhaps?

I have a buddy who needs some pointers... he's qualified, but is looking for some first hand beta (thinking 4th of July weekend)... anyone willing to share would be greatly appreciated...

Hope all is well...

It is a lovely route, a big ice fall really with moderate ice climbing and exciting glacier travel. Routes like this change in difficultly from year to year and as the season progresses. We found a number of pitches of 70 degree ice and lots of route finding, starting up far climbers right and finishing far climber's left.

I think we did it in mid June. The route becomes more broken and technical as the season progresses, and somewhat dangerous by August as the rock is absolute crap, and when the ice is gone rock fall becomes a problem. July 4th weekend should still be fine. The weather is drier on that side of the mountain, really unusual for what I think of a west side route. A two day ascent, descending via the North Ridge is pretty chill and the camping in the meadows is pretty nice, or you can camp right under the glacier next to a morainal tarn. Bring an axe and second tool or two tools, a few screws, and a couple of pickets.