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A buddy and I will be heading up to Rainier on the last weekend of April. While I realize the whole endeavor is entirely weather dependent, any advice on what routes are generally doable at that time of year? We're looking at for a moderately technical route (Grade III) a la Liberty Ridge. The Gauthier guidebook suggests that LR isn't really in season till May? Thanks.

Liberty Ridge is often approached via White River Campground which usually does not open until Memorial Day weekend. That adds 12 miles of road walking to the equation. Each way. Ipsut creek may be a better (read shorter) way to approach LR that time of year but I am unfamiliar with that approach. I know for a fact that a couple of locals climbed and skiied LR car to car in a day in winter from the Ipsut Creek trailhead.

In April, the only road plowed leads to Paradise which opens up a lot of pretty cool routes. Consider Kautz Glacier, Wilson Headwall, Fuhurer Thumb, Fuhurer Finger, Nisqually Glacier, Nisqually Ice Chute, Gibralter Ledges, Ingraham Direct, and Dissapointment Cleaver. All of these routes are easily doable in two days by a reasonably fit party.

I've never approached LR from Ipsut (or any angle ), but I do know the area.

The road from the Carbon River Ranger Station to Ipsut Creek Campground is closed (washed out, not planned to be opened any time soon). Thats 5 miles each way. Depending on the snow conditions, it may, however, be snow-free, and you would be able to bike it. Going in is slightly uphill (about 500' gain in 5 miles). It takes me about an hour on bike, but I'm slow. Going back takes about 15 minutes and is super fun! Oh, and biking with a huge pack on is not fun (AKA painful). Apparently they make trailer things for road bikes, which might work, but there are some bumpy places that might make taking a trailer tricky.

After you get to ipsut creek it is about 9 miles and 5500' elevation gain to a common camp on Curtis Ridge. That's where you meet up from the normal route from White River Campground. That's about as far as I can tell you about. From there you can find info easily I'd assume.

Oh and those guys that skiied it in a day did it before the road was closed. Still awesome though http://www.skisickness.com/Rainier/Liberty/

Good Luck!