SummitPost.org

Greetings fellow climbers,

gotta make this quick- @ a bar w/ wi-fi right now while getting a new tire put on, & after this is questionable when I'll have internet again.

So... Forbidden Peak, W ridge.

Approach:
do the route as a day climb, or backpack in, climb next day, then out day 3??

Is the approach obvious?

Need permits at the ranger station? Is there a quota? Do they have some kind of lottery system if you don't already have a reservation to Boston Basin (like Leavenworth for the Enchantments??) Hoping to be at the Marblemount ranger station when they open tomorrow morning at 7.

Would it be a good idea to bring an axe (1x) + a tech tool (x1) each for the approach couloir? Or just an axe?? How about pickets for pro'? How steep does this thing get? Anybody been up there recently? Any tricky moats/'schrunds to navigate to get onto the ridge proper?

Descent:

Best way to descend rapp'ing the route/downclimbing? Then downclimbing (or rapp'ing) the couloir? Or are the NE (?) ledges the better way to go?

Any misc. beta appreciated.

Thanks a lot!

-diggler

5800 feet vertical

Trail/Route is obvious. Though colouir to W. Ridge may have to take alternate colouir to the west of the "normal" one.

Its 40 degree snow. Axe only. If snow still in colouir can use rock pro. Heck can use all of the fixed rock pro. This late the colouir will probably be empty or with huge moat problems even with a super heavy snow year. Take the w. Colouir and if you don't like it either, take the east ridge and come down the west ridge.

Only need permit if you are camping overnight. Dayclimbs do not require permits. Yes, there is a quota.

Day route is how I did it.

If snow in colouir and not icy, quite common, just walk down. Otherwise walk down the 35-45 rock slope to the west of the west colouir and then a short reppel from entrace of west west colouir brings you to top of glacier. Walk back down glacier or way you came up.

Dig,

Do it in a day and simul the whole thing, you will more thn likely never get a permit in the nice weather for the Boston Basin.