gilbo wrote: I thought my original plan would include limited glacier travel (and experience) along with snow/rock/alpine climbing.
That is what I guessed. Your plan is a good one, the Quien Sabe glacier is pretty mellow. I consider WR Forbidden to be the first 'real' alpine climb I did. Colin Haley said the same. The NR of Forbidden
http://mountainwerks.org/cma/2002/forbidden.htm would require crossing the Boston Glacier, a no-nonsense glacier - the largest in the park. Unless the weather drastically changes, the approach couloir on West Ridge of Forbidden should still be snow filled. If you descend the route rather than take the East Ridge descent roue, you may need to do belayed downclimbing depending upon snow conditions. ExcitableBoy on the Boston heading to NR Forbidden. Image is MVS's.
In adddition to Wastral's suggestions, if you have extra time (with good weather, fitness, and efficiency you could knock off Forbidden, Sharkfin, and Sahale in 3 to 4 days as these peaks frequently get climbed CTC in a day) you could backtrack down Cascade River Road and do Eldorado Peak. The glacier is super mellow, (I never rope for it) and the elegant knife edge summit ridge is unique. Or head up HWY 20 to Washington Pass for some super fun alpine rock climbing with very short approaches. The Beckey Route on Liberty Bell is great, as is the SW Buttress on South Early Winter Spire (SEWS - 5.8'), the South Arete on same peak is easier at 5.4. If you have the guns for it, Direct East Buttress on SEWS (5.9, A0 or 5,11), NW corner of North Early Winter Spire (5.9), and East Face of Lexington Tower (5.9) are awesome day routes with short approaches, but no giveaways for the grade.
Wastral wrote:If you have extra time and coming down off of Sahale, go up to Cache col and keep on going till go up mix-up, magic, cascade, Jberg.
I REALLY am not trying to start a pissing match with Wastral, but I thought Mixup was a ho-hum peak and Jberg is not one I would recommend to someone new to the Cascades. Many other peaks with more friendly approaches, descents and better rock. Many Cascades locals have a story about epicing on Jberg. My favorite one involves my friends John and local legend Jim Nelson being over due and a high ranking congressman and an ensuing helicopter 'rescue'.
Wastral wrote:Unless he wants to do Terror/W. Forbidden traverse.
The Terror Forbidden traverse is also very good, but is a big step up in committment and difficutly over the other climbs discussed. As anyone who has climbed in the Cascades knows, difficulty cannot be measured by the YDS system alone.
Whatever you decide to climb, you really can't go wrong. After climbing the NF of Buckner we were trying to hitch a ride back down to our car at the Boston Basin TH, three miles distant from the Cascade Pass TH. A family from Sri Lanka were admiring the views of the mile high NF of JBerg, the Tripplets, Sahale Peak, and Sharkfin Tower. They asked me to take a photo of them with the mountains in the background. Upon learning that I had climbed all these peaks they insisted I identify each peak in the view shed, then they all took turns having their photo taken with me, the 'famous'
climber who had climbed all of these intimidating looking peaks.