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Hi all,
First: I did a search to see if there were similar questions posted, but didn't find any. If this is a repeat, though, my apologies.

I'll be in Portland in the middle of October and would love to get over and climb Mount Hood. So first: can anyone share their experiences climbing Hood in October (snow conditions, weather, rock fall, etc)? Second, what route recommendations would you make this time of year? It's my first time on Hood so I'm looking for more conservative routes (no pro needed, but suitable for ice axe/tool and crampon use). I'm a mid-level climber, and pretty conservative.

I really appreciate any local beta. Thank you!

Chris

Generally speaking, by October the volcanoes are at their lowest snow levels. On Hood this is important as the mountain is a huge pile of choss. Winter snow and ice are the only things holding the mountain together. After the snow and ice melts, there is nothing holding the 'rock' together and rockfall becomes a huge issue.

That said, this fall has been wet and cold and lots of snow has already fallen. It is conceivable that enough snow would have fallen and the weather would have been cold enough to create reasonable conditions by mid October. If there has been enough melt-freeze cycles and the weather decent for your trip, it may be ok.

In terms of route selection, the South Side/Hogsback is the standard route and has a short approach. It requires an ice axe and crampons. There are other, steeper routes, but most require some glacier travel which is not recommended if you are by your lonesome. If you don't mind soloing on glaciers and want to climb something steeper (i.e. requiring two tools) the Leuthold's Couloir is a step up from the South Side and Reid Glacier Headwall a step up from Leuthold's. All of these routes are approached from the same trail head.

I climbed Hood early Wednesday morning and the conditions were fantastic. Snow was nice and consolidated and I made good time. The bergschrund looked huge (pictures to come) so I opted to go around to the west of it then up. Wow does it get airy up that way!

Jarpup wrote:I climbed Hood early Wednesday morning and the conditions were fantastic. Snow was nice and consolidated and I made good time. The bergschrund looked huge (pictures to come) so I opted to go around to the west of it then up. Wow does it get airy up that way!

Good on you!
I take it then coverage was good?

Thanks for the report!

Snow coverage was great. There were a few bare spots just above the lodge, but beyond that it was solid all the way up. It warmed up just enough by mid-morning to soften the snow a little for a nice descent. Hood rocks!

Glad it worked out for you!

Thanks guys. I posted some pics and a brief trip report. South Side of Mount Hood in October or something like that. Wish I lived closer; Hood is a great mountain!