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I was planning to climb Mt Baker this weekend but just saw the avalanche warnings. Our group of 5 have plane tickets so we can't easily reschedule this trip. I'm scrambling on short notice to find an alternative peak to climb that has a lower risk of Avy danger, perhaps going up a ridge line. Do any of the locals have any suggestions? There is lower danger in the eastern Cascades and north aspects right now. Thanks in advance.

What is the skill level of the group?

March and April absolutely dumped a ton of snow. The weather is getting warmer this week, increasing the avalanche risk, particularly on sun exposed aspects. While the danger may be lower east of the crest on north facing aspects, that doesn't necessarily mean it is risk free. Even (especially??) low elevation peaks are potentially dangerous: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1123532/Re_TR_Kaleetan_Peak_South_Ridg#Post1123532. Maybe one of the north facing routes at Colchuck Lake is high enough and would stay cold enough? North Buttress Couloir or Colchuck Glacier on Colchuck perhaps, but I wouldn't consider that to be a sure bet. Even high elevation routes are reportedly dangerous: http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/ If it were me, I would go rock climbing in Leavenworth.

Matt Lemke wrote:What is the skill level of the group?

It's mixed/moderate. Everyone has at least some previous winter mountaineering experience on CO-14ers. Three ppl have climbed Rainier before.

There must be a couple of routes in the Cascades that are known for being relatively safe from Avy danger, no? Any thoughts on the North Ridge of Adams, or possibly the South Spur?

Alpinist wrote:

Matt Lemke wrote:What is the skill level of the group?

It's mixed/moderate. Everyone has at least some previous winter mountaineering experience on CO-14ers. Three ppl have climbed Rainier before.

There must be a couple of routes in the Cascades that are known for being relatively safe from Avy danger, no? Any thoughts on the North Ridge of Adams?

Cragging routes are known for being safe from avy danger. North Ridge of Adams would require a long approach right now, and I still wouldn't bet the farm on it being 'safe'.

Friends in Bend,OR are skiing the Sisters right now. Perhaps thats too far south for you, and the snow conditions do change quickly… although Bend is near hot springs and has great beer. Perhaps on Hood as well? If you're just trying to salvage the plane tickets, perhaps you're willing to look beyond climbing. Hiking, sea kayaking in the islands, Ross lake canoe, Stehekan. If you are river people the saying goes "When the puddles are prominent the Pilchuck is Pumping." Bellingham also has Great beer, and scenic coastline. A quick jaunt over to Friday Harbor to kayak, wouldn't require extra gear, and you could check conditions on the Baker route, hang out, then head down to the islands...

The San Juans in CO are in shape

This is a club outing. Our goal is to have a winter mountaineering experience (in Spring). Unless the conditions change in the northern Cascades, we're going to climb the Whitney Glacier on Mt Shasta. Conditions down there are very good right now.

Hard to believe there aren't a handful of peaks/routes that are well know for low Avy risk in the northern Cascades. If Avy conditions are bad in CO, there are a dozen peaks that you can climb that are relatively safe (Quandary, Bierstadt, etc.). Those are well documented. Maybe there are some in the northern Cascades but it's a secret?

Alpinist wrote:
Hard to believe there aren't a handful of peaks/routes that are well know for low Avy risk in the northern Cascades. If Avy conditions are bad in CO, there are a dozen peaks that you can climb that are relatively safe (Quandary, Bierstadt, etc.). Those are well documented. Maybe there are some in the northern Cascades but it's a secret?

There are spots in the Cascades that can be safer in high avalanche conditions, but generally not entire mountains or climbing routes. We are not keeping secrets from you. The Cascade snow pack is a very different animal from the Continental snowpack. Given the high avalanche forecast and the crappy weather forecast, your choice for Shasta is a good one. Have a good, safe trip. Mt Shasta is a special mountain, I think you will enjoy it.

If Avy conditions are bad in CO, there are a dozen peaks that you can climb that are relatively safe (Quandary, Bierstadt, etc.)

That's because the wind blows the snow almost completely off those routes, something that doesn't happen in the Cascades.

On the plus side, the snow usually stabilizes much quicker in the Cascades than it does in Colorado.

Alpinist wrote:This is a club outing. Our goal is to have a winter mountaineering experience (in Spring). Unless the conditions change in the northern Cascades, we're going to climb the Whitney Glacier on Mt Shasta. Conditions down there are very good right now.

If you are planning for the coming weekend, hope you like wind.

Mt. Hood Skiing today:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... =1&theater

96avs01 wrote:

Alpinist wrote:This is a club outing. Our goal is to have a winter mountaineering experience (in Spring). Unless the conditions change in the northern Cascades, we're going to climb the Whitney Glacier on Mt Shasta. Conditions down there are very good right now.

If you are planning for the coming weekend, hope you like wind.

Shasta_winds_20140503.JPG

Our summit day is Monday. The wind is suppose to calm down a bit by then. If not, well you know what they say. A day in the mountains is better than a day in the office. We're also climbing the north side (Whitney glacier) so we may get a little more shelter from the winds coming from the W-SW.

Alpinist wrote:Our summit day is Monday. The wind is suppose to calm down a bit by then. If not, well you know what they say. A day in the mountains is better than a day in the office. We're also climbing the north side (Whitney glacier) so we may get a little more shelter from the winds coming from the W-SW.

True, and you will have some protection until you top out on the Whitney. Misery Hill could be a bit brisk. Good luck and enjoy the climb.

Climbed Hood on 4/26. No avy danger there except on old chute. Ascended Pearly Gates. Everything was nice and firm. Bergschrund is filled in.