SummitPost.org

I'm hoping to make my first alpine climb next year. I'm hoping for Rainier. Preferably without having to deal with rain (early or late season). I've been looking at great lists on the guide sites and I was wondering if I can skip out on some of the things they list there or if it may be less expensive to find some people to go with.

So, you are looking for people to guide you up Rainier for free then?

I asked for some advice. Never asked for a guide.

if I can skip out on some of the things they list there

Like what? Food? Tent? Rain Gear/Shell? Climbing Boots?

You can certainly rent anything you need but they are still things you NEED.

A guide is cheaper than a funeral.

You could also learn to climb without a guide (which can take a while), and if you climb many mountains it will save money in the long run.

Actually, you off handedly asked for a party to join. We know fishing when we see it. I don't blame you for wanting to save money, but at least be up front about it. I know I'm never jumping at the opportunity for someone as green as Swiss summer grass to be butterflied into my rope, but if you get a little bit of experience and bring something to the table....you can get in a private group. You're better off joining a club and getting to know others in the community if you're looking to save money. Sorry, but those who take shortcuts end up at the bottom of a crevasse or throwing up from AMS. Remember, always be up front about your experience level with new partners. If you dont, and they are experienced, thryre going to figure it out right quickly and be none too happy about it. Good luck.

It sounds like you are also planning to climb Denali?

post989966.html#p989966

Denali training suggestions

I live at 400 feet elevation and the highest hill I can easily go up gets to about 900 feet. I've got a heavy backpack and something I can use as a sled. I obviously can't imitate the weather or elevation conditions, but maybe I can train hard enough to get myself to withstand those conditions. Probably put up to 80 lbs in my pack and 100 in the cart to make up the difference. Possibly fill the pack with ice. It wouldn't be the same, but it may help. Any of you ever trained in those conditions and succeeded Denali or some other high mountain?

If you are serious and not trolling, than Rainier will be pocket change (even if you don't go guided) compared to Denali. It also requires more gear. You need a lot more experience. Unless you have some really good climbing friends that will teach you for free, I'd suggest taking a training class on Rainier or Baker before trying any glaciated alpine climbs.

https://www.alpineascents.com/rainier-school.asp

Scott wrote:It sounds like you are also planning to climb Denali?

post989966.html#p989966

Denali training suggestions

I live at 400 feet elevation and the highest hill I can easily go up gets to about 900 feet. I've got a heavy backpack and something I can use as a sled. I obviously can't imitate the weather or elevation conditions, but maybe I can train hard enough to get myself to withstand those conditions. Probably put up to 80 lbs in my pack and 100 in the cart to make up the difference. Possibly fill the pack with ice. It wouldn't be the same, but it may help. Any of you ever trained in those conditions and succeeded Denali or some other high mountain?

If you are serious and not trolling, than Rainier will be pocket change (even if you don't go guided) compared to Denali. You need a lot more experience. I'd suggest taking a training class on Rainier before trying any alpine climbs.

Thinking he can train hard enough to replicate 20k at -40....on a 900ft hill? Better spend alot of time acclimatizing.

There are plenty of alpine starter kits before jumping on something as hefty as Rainier. Mount Adams, Saint Helens, Mount Hood, and many more. Learn to use an ice axe, read about crevasse rescue, practice knots, get into running, and do as many snow climbs as you can. Rainier was not handed to me, I was poor and did not have an alpine mentor. However that didn't stop me from making a genuine effort that brought me to the proper precautions and getting associated with the right people to learn how to climb. It was tough and I had to learn a lot of hard lessons before stepping foot on the mountain. But it paid off in the end and I was safer as a result.

If you go up without the proper training, you won't just be risking yours (and possibly others) lives, you will be stripping yourself of the opportunity to learn to climb. That reason alone is worth not taking short cuts. I understand what its like to be on a budget, more than most mountaineers ever will. You don't have to join a climbing club to learn how either (although for some this has been quite useful). For me it was building genuine friendships with people and doing everything I could to make their experience in the mountains better. Over time I was able to pay back their lessons by taking leads and helping them through sketchy terrain as well as other useful assistance in the mountains.

On the gear department often times people do carry up too much stuff. That being said you will want a good layer system up there because it does get really cold even during summer. A puffy, warm sleeping bag, and a hat are highly recommended. My two worst sun burns I've ever gotten were on Mount Rainier. Days later I had so much oils coming out of my face that it soaked my shirt! Both of those times I had facial protection, but wasn't using proper stuff (or timing). You don't want to be Darth Vader after getting off Rainier.

Mr. Lewis, you have the best response so far. Thank you.

WyomingSummits wrote:Actually, you off handedly asked for a party to join.

I'm sorry, that was not me intent.

The reason I asked about the great list is because the ones I have seen so far have had the same exact things as Denali and even Everest.
I just learned that I was at almost 13k feet a few years ago (Breckenridge ski resort) and I didn't when notice any change in my motor skills from the altitude. I'm sure rainier wouldn't be much different, but the ascent would be.
I think I'll take RMI. I could actually save enough $ for that and it does say "beginner" on there. I think I've been given the advice I need. Thank you.

Basham wrote:The reason I asked about the great list is because the ones I have seen so far have had the same exact things as Denali and even Everest.
I just learned that I was at almost 13k feet a few years ago (Breckenridge ski resort) and I didn't when notice any change in my motor skills from the altitude. I'm sure rainier wouldn't be much different, but the ascent would be.
I think I'll take RMI. I could actually save enough $ for that and it does say "beginner" on there. I think I've been given the advice I need. Thank you.

Good choice. You won't regret it.

Basham wrote:...I think I'll take RMI. I could actually save enough $ for that and it does say "beginner" on there.

May I suggest you re-think RMI? And not because they're not good (because they are), but because they tend to rush up then down the mountain. Not a great experience for the first time. Several years ago I went through the same decision making process for my first mountain attempt - Rainier, and decided upon IMG (International Mountain Guides). They're located a couple miles east of RMI on the way to the Nisqually entrance, and they take 3 1/2 days up/down instead of 2 1/2. Big difference, especially if you want to learn and "look around" more. I considered the $ also, and decided that I could either spend it on paying someone who knows what they're doing (and then teaching me), or spend it haphazardly trying to find someone to climb with that knows what they're doing, is careful, is compatible, etc. Further, I attended one of their "crack schools" (crevasse rescue), and learned a lot that way also. It was a very relaxing, informative two days, and well worth the money. Anyway, that's my opinion, worth every bit of what you paid for it.