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un oops... never remember how to do that right... thought had deleted... Any one doing a winter climb of Baker?

Norman wrote:Any one doing a winter climb of Baker?

Not with that growing, descending lenticular cloud.

I have a Baker trip planned for early May. Considering the heavy snowfall this year, I'd appreciate any tips from the locals on our best chance for success. That's assuming the skies clear between now and then. If not, we may have to find an alternate plan based on the avy conditions. We've already got plane tickets to Seattle so we're locked in to those dates.

As far as trailhead access, what's our best option? We are planning to start at either via the Heliotrope trailhead or Schreiber's Meadow but I'm open to suggestions.

In early May you should be fine starting at Heliotrope trailhead or Schreiber's Meadow, I have started from both trailheads in early May. You will likely have to walk the road a bit, may not be snow free all the way to the trailhead. Early May you have perhaps a 50-50 chance of having decent weather. Be prepared for 'isothermal' snow later in the day.

Thanks. Yeah, we plan to head up before dawn. Are there pull-out places to park along NF-39 so as not to block the road?

Alpinist wrote:Thanks. Yeah, we plan to head up before dawn. Are there pull-out places to park along NF-39 so as not to block the road?

I would not worry about finding a wide spot in the road in which to park.

Alpinist wrote:As far as trailhead access, what's our best option? We are planning to start at either via the Heliotrope trailhead or Schreiber's Meadow but I'm open to suggestions.

Beware that snowmobiles are allowed on the Easton Glacier and if the snow level reaches the parking lot you could be sharing the route with motorized recreation enthusiasts. I think by early May you might be ok, but if you want to ensure a more wilderness experience, the north side routes like Coleman-Deming glacier are a sure bet, although would involve a longer drive from Seattle.

Since you are making the trip from the mid west, you could get your plane ticket worth the cost and climb another mountain as well; Mt. Baker by Easton/Boulder/Squak glacier and Mt. Shuksan via. the Sulphide Glacier. The trailheads are quite close to each other.

I have been up the Easton Glacier in early May and the route up was loaded with snowmobiles. I have traveled to SEA from MSP in the spring about 7-8 times. Although you may get lucky with clear weather, don't expect it. Variable weather goes with that territory at that time of year.

I skied Mt. Baker via the Easton one day in early May (probably the first Saturday of the month). Although snow covered the parking lot, the river crossing was completely snow free (and bridge-less), so I think that may have deterred the snow mobile crowd? Also, we were able to drive within a 1/2 of the trail head.

Thanks. I'm aware of the snowmobiles on the south side (recreation area). Our goal is to climb the Coleman-Deming route depending on the TH access.

The latest update from the FS page is that the Glacier Creek Road is closed at mile marker 0.9 which would add 7 miles to the approach. But the report is from March 21st. Hopefully the road will open up considerably by May. I'll continue to monitor road conditions and/or call the FS before we go.

My bet is by early May you won't have to walk the road more than a mile or so. The approach for the Coleman-Demming is quite short, it typically takes me about 60 minutes from the trail head to the edge of the glacier, so an extra mile of road walking (which always seems to be onerous, no matter what the distance) should not add too much to your day.

I recommend camping on the glacier below the Black Buttes ~ 7,600 ft. There is an established camp there with toilets. It only adds an additional hour of hiking from the base of the glacier, but my preference is to camp as high as possible. There is another 'secret' camping site higher that is simply amazing, however, it is about a half hour hike off the climbing route.

Where ever you do end up camping, I would recommend bringing a shovel. All of the campsites will be covered in snow and you may be forced to shovel your own tent platform.

Thanks for the tips. We intend to camp on the glacier at 7200, as marked on the map below. Is that the place that you referenced? Are there toilets there...in the rocks somewhere??