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Alpinist wrote:Looks like a sweet climb but unfortunately Eightmile Rd is closed for winter at Bridge Creek Campground. That would make for a long approach.

Some girls recently did Triple Couloirs car to car and reported the approach took them 4.5 hours. I think the did the entire rig car to car in like 15.5 hours. With the road closed the approach is only about 10.5 miles to the start of the route. I did the route car to car in 14 hours in more difficult conditions with the road closed.

Weather has been cool and overcast with little precipitation. Avalanche conditions are not doing much one way or the other. Baker is still an excellent choice, but I suspect no matter what your ultimate objective is, you will do some road walking, which always seems like too much, no matter how far. Best of luck with the weather and conditions! Again, Mt. Baker is my favorite volcano, not a bad route on the mountain. More of a wilderness experience than Mt. Rainier, with all the same type of terrain and almost zero red tape.

ExcitableBoy wrote:Triple Couloirs is in fat shape: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ost1154575

Something to think about. 20 years ago it was a significant tick, now it is an easy day outing. Depending upon condition of course, and I suspect these conditons will continue for a couple weeks based on the cool, overcast weather we have been experiencing.

Here a recent TR for NE Couloir on Coluchuck. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ost1154576 When I climbed it we had exposed ice for a couple of pitches, but that was in February quite a number of years ago. Sounds like there is generally more snow this year, especially low down, than most years.

Just read that TR. It takes some pretty big cohones to climb under a cornice like they did, much less disturb it in any way. That's an amazing report but it's definitely not something I would try in May with the warming temps.

FYI - I spoke with the local ranger station. He doesn't have any reports of anyone going in from the Heliotrope TH yet but I did confirm 2 things. 1) They haven't placed portable toilets at the Black Buttes for many years. 2) We won't need a Recreation Pass since the trailhead parking area is not yet accessible. The road is blocked about 3 miles from the TH.

Alpinist wrote:FYI - I spoke with the local ranger station. He doesn't have any reports of anyone going in from the Heliotrope TH yet but I did confirm 2 things. 1) They haven't placed portable toilets at the Black Buttes for many years.

Well, I guess my information is dated. I wonder why they stopped installing toilets. People are just going to bury it in the snow anyway.