SummitPost.org

Since there are people coming back from their trips to Mexico volcanoes, it is time to inquire the conditions there (I suppose). Please, post your short notes here as well any tips that you consider necessary (travel et al) Or at least drop a note when the new summit log entry is posted.
Thank you.

Just got back from Mexico City this morning and went straight to work.

Clear blue skies the whole time we were there. The thing is, we were only there for less than one day. Got dropped off at the Refugio @ 6pm Sunday 11/26 and made the summit 9:30am Monday 11/27. There's no snow until you get to high camp @ ~15k'. From just a little above high camp to the glacier we opted to use crampons due to some icy patches, nothing too bad. It got cold and windy as we got onto the Jamapa glacier. I had two base layers, fleece, shell and down jacket on while climbing. I guess one can say that these conditions are perfect for a 18k' peak. Email me if you have other questions about the conditions.

ps. don't turn left and take about 10 steps if you get to the rim crater. I took a big dump there. Must have been the rotisserie chicken I had from the Sunday market in Tlachichucca.

Any updates on Orizaba? I leave in about 30 hours.

bump

See pictures from Dec 23 @ http://rinat.serveo.com/c5841ea1-69fa-47d0-895f-d80c169a9355.443.0 The conditions are great, if you are sure about your snow travel skills, you can leave the pro home or at the camp. Again self-arrest is difficult: one will need to catch at the very beginning of the slide, otherwise it becomes impossible with bad consequences as the runout is in the terminal and lateral morains of the glacier. We found a small crevasse

Great pics Rinat. I can't wait to go. How long did it take you from arival to departure? (I'm trying to figure out how much time I sould take off work).

Congrats on the Summit. I notice that there's no snow on the summit. A big change since last month.

I know your buddy Hima. I've climbed with him once sometime last year. He told me he was heading down there, I didn't know it was with you. I guess the Russians know how to find each other.

Thanks, Kevin. Yes - there is less snow, but I would say there is more ice as well.

We were planning to make it in 6 days (Dec 21-26), but managed to complete it in 4 days (Dec 21-24).
Dec 21: flying from TIJ to MEX, riding a bus to Puebla & Tlachicuca. Started with the flight at 9:20 am, knocked at the door of Senior Limon's compound at 22:30 (local)
Dec 22: Driving to Piedra Grande Hut (10 am to 12:30 pm), hiking to the camp
Dec 23: Climbing from the camp to the summit and back to the hut
Dec 24: Riding from the hut to Tlachichuca - Puebla - Mexico City (started 11 am, arrived to MEX at 6:30 pm). Changed the flights and crossed the border in TIJ at 12:45 am on Dec 25.
Benefits: fast
Negative factors: luck of sleep, luck of acclimatization.
I still think that 6 days should be planned as you cannot be sure about the weather more than a week in advance + your level acclimatization, fitness, technical skills may vary.

I leave in a week.

Any updates?

The glacier was quite variable on Jan 17. Went from crunch snow to ice, then back to snow. The weird thing was the higher you go, the better it got. Oh, and it softened up a ton in the afternoon sun. We considered a mid-afternoon climb from high camp. In fact, we spent the afternoon at 17,500 shoot ing video and declined to go for it because clouds creating 0 visibility and we would have descended in the dark. So we opted for an early AM start the next day from high camp, and found it frozen up again. Just don't fall on that glacier, you get one shot to arrest.

The labyrinth was mixed we rock, snow, ice & mud. Don't take a pair of crampons that you really like, they will be beaten up. We several people trying to not use crampons in the labyrinth. Not sure I understood the point as you need them on the glacier. If you stick to the chutes on the right side of the labyrinth, they are pretty solid and fun to climb.

Summited Pico on Feb 2nd:

1. Arrived in Tlachichuca at senior Reyes place at 9pm. Took 1 taxi from airport to Autobus estacion(200 pesos); Bus to Puebla with change to Tlach(145 pesos). Bus service is excellent and very cheap! After a nice sleep and breakfast at Senior Reyes, his driver takes us for the 2 hour ride to Piedra Grande. BTW, Senior Reyes and his staff is 1st class. Took a short hike to 15,000 and return. Two mice did join us at dusk and walked over our heads while sleeping-a bit unnerving. Bring blue bags if you prefer not to crap on Orizaba. Shocking they don't permit this mountain and hut to keep it clean. Toilet paper and turds everywhere.

2. Next day we hike to bottom of glacier(16,300) and return. I went conservative to acclimate another day. Senior Reyes said he sees plenty of Colorado climbers suffer from AMS, as alot think they can bang out Pico the second day. We had plenty of time so I took his advice(never been over 14,500). I reside in Loveland at 5,000.

3. Start hiking at 3:30 and enjoyed some really nice mixed ice climbing left side of Laby. Arrived at the top in 5.5 hours. Gorgeous day as the muy fuerta viento decreased from 50 mph gust to a steady 20-30 mph. Conditions were solid and safe on glacier-no worries. No protection neccessary. Casually descended and Senior Reyes driver there to pick us up at 2pm. Arrive back for dinner and beers at Reyes.

This was my first big mountain and I enjoyed it immensely. The top is beautiful, and the Mexican climbers at hut are courteous and kind. We left all our gear out and nobody touched a thing. They were actually waiting for us to pack our hut gear to claim a sleeping spot. Tlachichuca has great food and people as well. Again, Senior Reyes has a FIRST CLASS operation. His driver will cater to your travel needs for the right price. Remember, these people all work for tips-please tip accordingly. Enjoy and acclimitize properly to avoid the headache.

Sweet! Thanks everyone.

On another note, i've got two weeks in Mexico after I climb, any suggestions?

We've got some ideas, but is there anything that is a Must-Do? (still not sure if we'll climb itza too)

Teotihuacan