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I arrived in Mendoza without any prior arrangements. I bought the permit and provisions in the well stocked supermarkets and off I went. First to Cordon del Plata for a week of acclimatization. When I felt ready I walked in (no mulas) and climbed the peak.
If well acclimatized, I don't think it's a big deal to carry in the gear needed for the climb. If you run out of provisions, you can always eat in one of the many restaurants and buy food, white gas and gas canisters in BC.

If you want to arrange a deal with a company in Mendoza, pay Hostel Independencia a visit. Aconcagua Xperience has an office there.

We arranged (through Rudy Para) everything before we got there. We used him for transporation and mules. As for needing a guide, you certainly won't need one to find the route (either the Normal Route or the Polish Traverse). Both routes have trails up them. The most technical thing you will hit on either route would be an easy snow field. A guide would offer a bit of security if something goes wrong but other than that, you shouldn't need one.

Also used Rudy Parra for mules and a few meals at BC (he has a good cook) and it worked out well. As long as you go with a local company (vs. a UK/US based one) I don't think there's a cost difference if you make arrangement in advance so you might as well do it. You will be there a little on the early side so there won't be a ton of people so don't expect to be walking in a line or anything (and one storm could wipe out the tracks). However, the route is very easy to find so a basic route description should due. We had some issues with early season snow on our first attempt on our planned route (Polish Direct) but after 2 tries we switched to the traverse which was no problem.

[Clarifying note: Route finding on the Direct is also straightforward. Our problem was climbing conditions, not the route finding.]

As the folks who posted before me said, a guide isn't really necessary - but if you want/need one, they're not hard to find. However a word about Parra - I realize that lots of folks have had a good experience getting mules from him, but I did not. His mule drivers were very incompetent - at least on this occasion - and as a result more than half of my gear was lost in the Vacas river. Personally I'd use someone else and definitely get travel insurance as well.

longol wrote:Cheers Corax.

1. Are you suggesting with some proper research and preparation, weather and aclimatisation permitting of course, this trek is possible to do without a guide?

Was thinking about the normal route or possibly the Polish traverse route with no technical ability required!

2. Are these routes up that straight forward?

3. Did you manage to socialise OK with other groups doing it independently?

Some other posters have already given their opinions, but as you asked me directly I should also tell you what I think.

1. Yes, absolutely!
The walk in routes to the BCs are very clear paths.

2. Yes, also on the peak itself I condsider the route finding very easy. If there's snow, you can always wait until other groups take the lead.
Of course you can get lost on any mountain, but on Aconcagua the risk is low.
The difficulty of the two mentioned routes: No technical climbing at all. They are both walk-ups.
That said; beware of rough weather, the cold and of course the altitude.

3. Yes, I met a lot of nice climbers from all over the world and it was easy to socialize. The only exception was members of a few guided groups, which weren't interested in talking to anyone outside their own group.

There are a lot of useful tips on literature and maps on this page.

The Aconcagua page is excellent:
http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock ... cagua.html
Here's one about the group:
http://www.summitpost.org/area/range/17 ... group.html

The worst I remember seeing was -5F and that was the night after the failed Polish Direct summit attempt. The winds when we turned around were about 80mph and got worse that night, so it was maybe 90 - 95 mph?? A couple of teams had their tents shredded. My point is...that was a bad night and it was only -5F to a -20C bag w/liner seems OK. I was fine without a down suit. Also, I am a cold person so most people can go lighter than me.

Hi Dan,
My name is Jim Nylander and I am the North Amerca rep for Xperience Aconcagua.
It is wise to book your climb before you arrive. You can check out our website.
www.aconcagua-xperience.com.ar
You may also contact me directly usaoffice@aconcagua-xperience.com.ar

I handle most of our bookings and guide as well.
I would be happy to answer any questions you have.
Best,
Jim Nylander

longol wrote:Thanks a lot for all your reponses guys. most helpful.

A couple more questions If I may which a few of the companies I have contacted seem to have differing opinions on.

Sleeping bag. With a silk lining inside, what extreme temp. rating would you go for. I have been quoted -20C several times but a few companies suggest at least -25C.

Any experiences you can share?

Secondly one or two companies have suggested you don't need a down suit.
your thoughts on this?

Cheers,
Dan.

Sleeping bag: I took a -25F bag (over-rated, more like a -15F to -20F). I never zipped it at all. Except for one night, I just used it as a blanket and never got in it. That one night, it got down to -10F. If I were to go again, I would probably take my 10F bag and plan on putting on a jacket if I got cold.

As for juh's comment about Parra, I have heard bad things about several of the companies down there. When we were there, the mule drivers didn't drop of the gear for each night, but took everything to base camp and then left it in the wrong place. The group had nothing but daypacks for 3 days until the finally located their gear. Seems like it's really hit or miss to get good mule drivers, but I think most of them are pretty reliable.

Aconcagua Xperience has a very good reputation and I have only good things to say about them. The issue I really remember of their oraganization is that they put the safety matters first. Some don't. Ask me, I worked for one of those money hungry companies who're only in it for the money and of course it was very hard to guide on the peak. I should've turned down the offer in the first place, but it's always easy to be smart afterwards.

I agree on what's said about a down suit.
Under normal conditions, even if the weather turns a bit bad you will do fine without. The times I have summited I've only used thermals, fleece and a membrane jacket on my upper body and a single layer stretch fleece pants. I have been very lucky with the weather though. I have had a light down jacket, wind pants and a bivy bag in my back pack at all times. If really bad weather hits Aconcagua, it hits hard and fast.

In regards to the mule companies on Aconcagua:
Yes, problems do occur. I know of several climbers who have lost their stuff or have had it dropped off in the wrong place.
What is the common denominator here?
Unfortunately all the accounts I am aware of have been to un-guided individuals.
I can't say nor do I want to say that this is intentional but it does make one wonder.
Our company has been using Rudy Parra and have had no problems. I also highly reccomend Grajales.
If you are planning going un-guided I would reccomend booking your mules through a guiding company. Even though the company cannot give you any insurance to speak of it may help in terms of keeping up good business relationships with the guiding company.

Our company can book mule services if that is all you need. The best part is it won't cost you any more than going direct with the mule company itself.
Why?
We do volume business and therefore get price breaks over the course of the season.

Other companies may offer the same service for the same price as well.
In anycase, do your homework.
Jim

My wife and I both took 0F bags last year in late December/early January on the Polish Route and were fine. Down suits are not required and I'll only be taking my Primaloft belay jacket this year because I found my thick, down parka too warm for this mountain.

As for mules our group will be using Jim's services at Xperience Aconcaga. I am well aware of the problem juh33 had last year with the unprofessionalism of Parra's muleteers in that particular case. We used Grajales and had our own problems and I wouldn't recommend using them.

If you need any more info send me an email at info@adventureclimbing.ca.

Brad