SummitPost.org

Hi, I'm new here. I wanted to ask those on here who have successfully summited Aconcagua (or, if didn't summit due to weather, etc, felt prepared) what their workout routine consisted of, particularly in the last 3 months before the climb. I realize there are training plans all over the internet, but some are pretty generic. Just want to see if I would realistically be ready. Thanks!

Also does anyone have any info on using KE Adventure for Aconcagua? I went with them to Mera Peak in Nepal and they were fantastic, but I don't hear much about them on Aconcagua, though they have been leading trips there for awhile.

And, some companies say you will carry 60 lbs and some say 30-40, even without advertising porters. What's the real story? I'm sure your own personal gear weight makes a lot of difference, but that's a large disparity.

Thanks everyone!

Linnea

Hi Linnea and welcome to SP. I'm sure you'll get many responses about conditioning but I can't really contribute as my routine is simply on a Stairmaster with my pack on. As for weight some companies advertise the heaviest weight carried which is the trip down after summit day. Packs can weigh over 70 lbs depending on what they brought up. The 30-40 lb weight stated may be the expected weight carried during each carry day and when moving up to the higher camps.

Good luck on your climb.

I've summited twice via the normal route, once alone, once with my girlfriend. Never used guides or porters. I doubt my pack has ever been heavier than a genuine 20kg/44 lbs - that would either be on the second carry from BC to Nido, or down from Nido to BC after summiting. Other days it was much less.

KE is an established and reputable company, but any western company just uses a local company for all logistics, then adds their costs and profit on top, so it depends on what local company they use and how well they pay them. You'll get much the same service - but not guides - going direct to one of the local companies: Inka, Aymara, Rudi Parra, Fernando Grajales. Depends how much pre-trip service and on-mountain guiding you need.

Since most people double carry from basecamp and up, Brad's numbers are good estimates: 30~35 pounds on the way up and double that on the way down. No, you can't subtract the weight of food for the way down, since you must pack out your "solid waste". In fact, if not properly dehydrated....

As for training, carrying a heavy pack up local hills or mountains for leg strength and maybe some running for cardio (though I never ran). What you really need is experience in multi-day backpacking in "chilly" weather.

Thanks guys. Currently I'm just doing my normal workout, running twice a week 6-9 miles, lifting twice a week, elliptical for an hour twice a week at an incline, hiking once a week 8-16 miles with good elevation gain, and on the 6th day either a shorter run with intervals or a bike ride, and pilates twice a week. This is kind of slackerish for me so I'll add more weight to my pack and see how it goes. I have done a couple hikes in the past with 70 lbs and one with 85 (didn't like that much!)
I appreciate all the info on this forum!

I used this for Denali (threw in uphill tire pulling as well for sled training) and felt very prepared. I am heading to Aco in January and just started the above program on month 3 the first of October. Like Brad, I am on the stairmaster with my pack on for most of the cardio sessions that I can not get outside for. Love the Stairmaster because it is the hardest cardio in the gym thus never crowded!! Welcome to SP !
http://www.alpineascents.com/pdf/denali-train.pdf

Good comments all. Cold weather back backing is perfect. But the Stairmaster with or without a pack is good training. Mental toughness is a must. I have seen some super athletes who have all the physical tools talk themselves off of this mountain. I have seen people who look out of shape succeed because of mental toughness and high tolerance to pain and adversity.
Good luck on your climb. Cheers William

Thanks Scott and William. How long do you guys stay on the Stairmonster? I'm afraid after an hour I am hoping the fire alarm will go off. I WILL do it though. Luckily we have some pretty steep trails in the mountains here too.
Scott, are you going with a guide or self-supported?

Thanks!

I typically do a one hour session on the Stairmonster followed by an hour on the spin bike on a rainy Saturday when I can not get out. I have a "Hill" within 10 minutes of my house where I can gain 2100' in a little under 3 miles and that is my preferred method of uphill training.

I am on a private trip with Mountain Trip.

I used to do 90 mins SM, but later mix it up to 30 min SM, 30 mins Bike and then 30 min cross trainer.
Because I live near the mountains now I train on the hills themselves and run 2-3 times a week. Last week my longest run was a 14 k trail run. I still play hockey once a week as well. But Im not sure why I keep training as I am not going to Aconcagua this year. I feel guilty if I am not doing some from of training. (•:

Going through the expedition climbing program from Clyde Soles book "Climbing: training for peak performance". It combines different elements including aerobic, anaerobic and weight training. I had a set back after the MB accident 4 weeks ago which effectively paused by upper body exercises, but I am still continue with core and lower body just following through the routine. I am spending most of time in the local gym recently b/c running and MB are not possible until I rehab the broken shoulder. So far I am committed to the trip in Dec-Jan, unless there are strong reasons not do it like jeopardising the team. We are going unsupported and use the guiding company for the usual logistics to the basecamp.

Linnea,
Sounds like what you are already doing is pretty good. I'd say two strength workouts a week and 4-5 cardio, for at least 70 minutes of actual work at a pretty agressive pace (75-80% of Max) will have you in great shape. Add one long hike day a week if you can with the weather. Aconcogua is a long slog and the comments about mental toughness are very good. If you are doing the ruta normal, there is no technical and generally crampons might only be needed right after Independance (though conditions can change that).
I went unsupported, solo, but used a mule to haul my gear to BC. Since I single carried to Nido, I think my pack weight was over what you would want to carry. Probably 50 - 55 lbs, then summitted from there with hardly any weight. If I was going today with the better gear, I think I could bring a 35/40 pound pack pretty easily.

Thanks guys! I really appreciate all the information. Going to try to get a few more hikes in before I have to switch to snowshoes.

Hi,

not to hijack your topic - but I just have another question for aconcagua vets:

are there companies on aconcagua that offer a 'weather-service'? Meaning: can you, for a fee, contact them by radio when you are on the mountain to get weather information?
If not, how do you obtain correct weather information while on the mountain?

thanks a lot for the help!

I didn't have a radio but whenever I met and asked any porters or guides they told me what the last forecast they new of was. So I guess you can ask on a radio too and someone is gonna answer you for free, why wouldn't they? Most of the people working on the mountain seemed to be reasonably helpful and friendly not only to their own clients.