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I'm looking to talk with anyone who has climbed Illiniza Sur and/or Antisana Sur.

If anyone has experience with either of these mountains and would be willing to answer a few questions then please let me know.

Cheers

Jonny

What questions do you have?

The guides will likely haul you up Antisana only to *whoops* completely forget about the icy summit crevasse headwall shenanigans that require ice climbing despite their guide buddies attempting it a couple days prior and knowing it's an issue. Complete scam, really. If you want to do Antisana, be prepared to climb the vert stuff yourself, bringing your own gear, and haul the guide up (ideal, come to think of it).

I have not summited Antisana, but climbed Illiniza Sur around New Years. Talus slog trail switchbacking up, traverse loose scree quickly, a few 3rd class moves up to a talus bench, a few hundred feet of dirty glacier ice ~65 deg on a wide gully (ax and tool), a few switchbacks around crevasses, and another short, less-steep dirty ice/snow/scree pitch ~50 deg up and then right around summit cornices. We brought ice screws (3) and they were put to use.

Well he was asking about Antisana Sur, not the cumbre maxima as wie will be attempting it in July.
Anybody knows about the current conditions on Illiniza sur? I climbed it 2 years ago and conditions were very good, but I think I was lucky.

Thanks for the reply.

My experience on mountains is the 3 mont tranverse to the summit of Mt Blanc, the normal route on Huayna Potosi, gully number 2 on the north face of Ben Nevis and by next week I'll have climbed Vallunaraju, Ishinca and Pisco in the Cordillera Blanca. I've never lead an ice climb and I've never been responsible for the use of gear on an ice climb.

In your opinion, and don't worry I'll be doing plenty of other research into this, do you think I'm ready for Illiniza Sur? I'll be climbing with a more experienced climber than me and two Ecuadorian guides.

Thanks, Jonny

jonnyanddonna wrote:My experience on mountains is the 3 mont tranverse to the summit of Mt Blanc, the normal route on Huayna Potosi, gully number 2 on the north face of Ben Nevis and by next week I'll have climbed Vallunaraju, Ishinca and Pisco in the Cordillera Blanca. I've never lead an ice climb and I've never been responsible for the use of gear on an ice climb.

In your opinion, and don't worry I'll be doing plenty of other research into this, do you think I'm ready for Illiniza Sur? I'll be climbing with a more experienced climber than me and two Ecuadorian guides.

Thanks, Jonny

Apart from the Nr 2 gully on Ben Nevis I've climbed all these routes, including Illiniza Sur (with a local guide). The route was in fine shape, and while it's steep for a longer part of the climb, I didn't find it harder than the steep section on the shoulder of Mont Maudit which is the crux on the 3 monts traverse. I found both Huayna Potosi and Pisco easier, and Vallunaraju and Ishinca much easier. Obviously, the route conditions at the time of the climb can make a huge difference, but if Illiniza Sur is in reasonable shape, then, with your experience, go for it!

Saludos, Rob


On top of Illiniza Sur

Based on your description above, I can say you have enough experience for Illiniza.
I climbed both peaks with my wife, who had no high altitude experience at all and we make it to the summit.
Probably by new regulations you will have a guide anyway.
Best luck.

Hi,

I climbed Illiniza Sur 2 weeks ago and I can only say it is really no terrain suitable for beginners at all! It had sections of about 75-80 degrees on hard ice and this for more than 1400 vertical feet. No margin for errors.