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Aconcagua guideless

PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 3:50 pm
by Woodie Hopper
I'm going to Argentina around January 19th next year and have been wavering over going with a guide service or not- maybe even solo. Is there anyone out there who might be interested going with me guideless? I don't think getting mules and transportation to and from Mendoza would be difficult- and probably not very expensive. Also, if anyone would like to give me their $0.02 about a solo trip I would welcome your input, but you don't need to enquire about my conditioning, it's not an issue. I'm budgeting 3 weeks for the trip and already have the time off. If there are any takers we would obviously have plenty of time to get acquainted and do some climbs beforehand.

Woodie

PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 5:57 pm
by Helle
Hi Woodie

Going guideless om Aconcagua is no problem. But January is peak season, and it would be a good idea to book the mule-service ahead. There is a shortage of mules, as the owners have realized, that even mules have to rest between ekspeditions. The same companies that provide guide-services - can provide mule-service. It is not at all cheap. I don't remember the exact price - you can see them on the companies' homepages. You pay by the number of mules required. Going by the normal route is less expensive, while the approach is shorter. But also less interesting.
Enjoy your climb.

Helle

PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2007 4:06 am
by William Marler
Going guideless is certainly possible. At that time of the year you will have many others on the mountain with you. It would be best however to team up with other like minded people so that you can watch each other. Should be possible given the crowds in Mendoza. Also helps defer the cost of mules. 60 kilos per mule (2 bags of 30). I agree that the normal route is less interesting. But it cost more mule wise due to the extra days travel. Probably worth it.
Good luck and I hope it works out for you.
Cheers William

PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2007 4:31 am
by Pat M
I don't really know a whole lot about this, I mainly stick to the hills out East. Could someone please enlighten me as to why you really need mules? It seems easier to just backpack the whole way.

PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2007 1:23 pm
by Helle
Well, it's certainly possible without mules, but the loads are quite heavy for a climb of nearly 7000 meters. Especially if you plan for Polish Glacier, where you will need a bit more climbing equipment than on the normal route.
It's just a choice you have make - will you tire yourself by carrying all your stuff for the approach (2 or 3 days), or will you pay for the convenience. I have tried both - and I definitely prefer the mule-service and spare myself for the carry up the mountain.

Helle

PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2007 2:47 pm
by divnamite
PM Brad Marshall, I think he planned his climb on his own, not guide services were used.

PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2007 5:13 pm
by Brad Marshall
Hi Woodie.

Climbing Aconcagua guideless/solo is quite common but it really depends on the climber and their skill/confidence level. I agree with Bill Marler that hooking up with someone so you can keep an eye on each other is a good idea when it comes to AMS. For those who might not have the skill, confidence or time to organize their own climb there are plenty of local companies to hire. Hiring a firm to help with the logistics also allows you to concentrate more on the climb instead of worrying about all the little problems that develop. For info on solo climbing you could try contacting fellow SPers juh33 who successfully climbed the Polish Traverse on his own in 2005/2006 or muddeer who climbed it in 2006/2007.

As for mules Pat they aren't required if you don't mind carrying all your gear on your back during the 2-3 day approach (depending on the route you choose). The average climber brings 35-40 kilos so it gets little heavy. I find using mules more enjoyable and allows climbers to save their strength for higher on the mountain.

That said, mules start at $200 US each way (Plaza Argentina) and are the most expensive part of the climb after airfare. You can save money by joining with fellow climbers as each additional mule hired reduces the cost per person. Private transportation to and from Mendoza to the trail head can be organized before you go and it's nicer than waiting for the bus in my opinion.

Sent me an email Woodie and I'll send you whatever info I have.

PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 5:13 am
by Woodie Hopper
Thanks to all of you for chiming in. Whatever I finally decide I'll let you know how it turns out.

Brad, I sent you a PM- thanks!

Woodie

PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:48 pm
by Marcelo Medeiros
My friend just soled Aconcagua.
He told me the pros and cons he found at normal route.
He paid US$ 250 to the logistic (a van from Mendoza to Puente del inca + mules).
If he had went by normal bus line, he would pay about US$ 5 to the bus and just US$ 80 to the mules services, wich are plenty at Puente del Inca (the starting point). They already have the big stuff sack to the mules. He wouldnt hire the whole service again.
You will probably take 3 days from Puente del Inca (Park entrance) to Plaza de Mulas. First camp at Confluencia and second camp between Confluencia and Plaza de Mulas (suposelly not allowed). This last section is really hard and will take your energies, reazon why my friend said it is not a good idea to carry much wait on your back all the approaching. Better take a "expedition gear" with mules. You need some confort. Remember you need 15 day or more at the mountain.
Once at Plaza de Mulas, the hotel is a good a cheap (or not so expensive) place to stay at least 1 or 2 nights, resting and/or doing the porteo to Plaza Canada or even Nido the Condores (2 tents).
No way to go alone, unless you close your face to others. You will find friends and can easily join a group. Even if you want to, you will probably not solo Aco in January. You will be in a line, going up or down. No need of a guide. No way to lose the track.
Otherwise, you know the mountain is high and you might have AMS. The tips for a secure climb are:

Stay long at Plaza de Mulas (around 4 nights)
Stay long at Nido de Condores (around 3 nights - Doctors will be there and the helicopter can go there)
Think about the possibility to do the final push from Berlim.
Take a good sleep after leaving to summit (instead those who leave at 1AM without sleeping - The sundown will be at 9PM.
TAKE A RADIO. It might be one of your best gear. You will be in touch with the rangers all the climb. If anything goes wrong, just tell them.

PS: These informations are from my friend. Better check it out with those who have been there!!!!

Have a good climb

PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 1:34 pm
by Alpinist
My trip report from Dec 2005 might help with your planning if you decide to take the Normal Route. It lists how long we stayed at each of the camps. Inkas charged us $120(US) each way for the mules to haul our gear to Plaza del Mulas for 2 people. It is a little pricey, but worth it. That fee included RT shuttle from the bus stop to the park, private latrine use at BC, hot water everyday at BC, and storage of extra gear. We were very happy with them.

PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 3:48 pm
by Woodie Hopper
All:
All the input was really appreciated. After careful consideration I decided to go with Aventuras rather than doing it unsupported.

Thanks again!

Woodie