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Artesonraju or Siula Grande conditions ?

PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 2:10 pm
by stubborn
Hi
Wonder if someone have climbed Artesonraju or Siula Grande the last seasons ?
I searching for news and info about the conditions on the routes, basecamps or the trekking part to the basecamps. Have there been any changes compare to the guidebooks of the areas, like the route descriptions for Alpamayo and Huscaran Sur ?
I was on Alpamayo and Huscaran Sur in this summer and anybody recommended us to climb French direct because the Ferarri route was realy dangerous this year (the serac at the top). And Huscaran Sur was also a bit difficult with a lot of crevasses on the approach and on the route and probably not a PD like the grade in the guidebooks.

Would be very grateful for someones info and help
/Patrik