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easiest route on ocshapalca?

PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:53 pm
by bledl
Hi folks!

I am currently looking for routes on ocshapalca in the CB/Peru. I was quite fascinated by that steep ice fluted face when climbing neighbouring peaks. It looked really hard, but now I heard rumos about a route around "D", what should be okay with me. I did not find accurate beta on this topic on the ocshapalca site. Anyone knows this peak well?
I feel comfortable on ice/snow up to 70° with the occasional steeper section (up to WI 4) and already climbed a lot of peaks in Bolivia/Peru.
Any beta?

gracias a todos! Flo. :D

PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 1:45 am
by Tom Fralich
It seems to me that the 1989 route (Casas, Obregon, Amils, Sunyer) should be close to D..."50-60 degree snow and ice fluting to 40m of steeper ice at the top." It's to the right of the American and Grasi routes. The American route seems to have a lot more "75-85 degree ice pitches," but I heard that it gets done a lot and often gets pretty stepped out with V-thread anchors in place, making it a pretty reasonable objective if you lead WI4. I've never done any of these, but I'd certainly try one or both if I were down there again. And it seems that we probably climb at around the same level.