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I am looking for a cheap guide company for a 2-3 week trip to Cordillera Real and Illimani. I have done Aconcagua, Mt Blanc, AA's Denali training course, etc. so I might be a intermediate climber. I don't need the hand-holding guides anymore. I like companionship and dislike going solo. Hooking up with a group is another possibility. Appreciate any ideas.

wkriesel wrote:I am looking for a cheap guide company for a 2-3 week trip to Cordillera Real and Illimani. I have done Aconcagua, Mt Blanc, AA's Denali training course, etc. so I might be a intermediate climber. I don't need the hand-holding guides anymore. I like companionship and dislike going solo. Hooking up with a group is another possibility. Appreciate any ideas.

As far as going for the cheap guide services I have to say you may get what you pay for. After seeing some of the guiding that goes on in Bolivia first hand this year I would be very careful about picking your guide company. I am not going to say you should use a north American guide, but you should defiantly think about it. For example I watched a local guide lower a client of a single ice screw in the same place I used a picket. No way was that screw any good.

If you do decide to use a local guide then you should be sure that he is IFMGA certified which might get you some sort of quality assurance, but it still may not be of the same standard of EU or NA guides.

Feel free to contact me via PM if you have any specific questions about Bolivia. I will be down there again next year doing American Alpine Institutes 3 week trip.

wkriesel wrote:I am looking for a cheap guide company for a 2-3 week trip to Cordillera Real and Illimani. I have done Aconcagua, Mt Blanc, AA's Denali training course, etc. so I might be a intermediate climber. I don't need the hand-holding guides anymore. I like companionship and dislike going solo. Hooking up with a group is another possibility. Appreciate any ideas.

Have been there in 2009 and really want to return as soon as possible, hopefully 2011. Illampu, Chearoco and Chachacomani are very high on my wishlist. You can PM me how things are evolving beginning of 2011. Grtz

Thanks for the reponses, guys! Perhaps cheap was a poor choice of words. Nonexpensive or local might have been better. I will PM you as 2011 approaches.

Check out the trip report I recently wrote up on the Cordillera Real. I covered some of your questions/concerns regarding local guides. I agree with Alasdair in that some of the guides don't use safe practices. But if you're a competent climber and just want a guide more for local company and route finding help, then you should be fine with whoever you choose.

I am also interested in Ancohuma and Illampu in 2011. I know Woody Hooper and Haliku are too. Lets all keep in touch regarding those peaks.

I climbed with Eduardo Mamani who freelances and guides for Bolivian Mountains. He is very easy-going, strong and has very good organization for his trips. I plan to use him next year for Illampu and Ancohuma, among other climbs. It was pretty clear from interactions with other guides we encountered that he is highly regarded among his peers. He also has a few family members who are also excellent guides including Gregorio, Jose and Pedro.

I asked him for an estimate for Illampu and Ancohuma assuming two clients yesterday.

Woodie

Same as above I was guided by eduardo and jose mamani , through bolivian mountains.
I had a great trip, wouldn't think twice about recommending them. I found john from bolivian mountains very helpfull . Im thinking of going back in
2011

hey guys..im also trying to get a trip together for bolivia this coming summer..illimani is a must for, that mtn is beautiful..i really do not want to use a guide, much rather go with a group..it would be my first international trip, but i have tons of experience in the northwest and colorado...let me know if you have any advice or anything..

astrobassman wrote:I am also interested in Ancohuma and Illampu in 2011. I know Woody Hooper and Haliku are too. Lets all keep in touch regarding those peaks.

I'm out for 2011 to Bolivia. I was accepted to a team to go to Iran and climb in the May/June period. Cheers!

Hey everyone, my name is Nico and i am also planing a trip to Bolivia for July and August 2011 for about 6 weeks. I'm interested in climbing Illampu, Ancohuma, and maybe Chachacomani or Chearoco depends on the weather and if i can find partners. I don't want to use a guide service. If anyone is interested in making a group for any of these climbs let me know.

Hey guys,
i am taking myself out of the running for a Bolivia trip this year. $$$ problems. Going to Banff instead.

I live in Bolivia, part Bolivian myself. Climbing June/July Huayna's East French route, Illimani & Sajama's normal. Going with Gonzalo Jaimes (Bolivia's UAIGM instructor) whom I have climbed with before and is held in high regard by the climbing community here. Anyone interested please let me know. There's an infinite supply of cheap guides in Bolivia who get people killed. There are also expensive ones who pretend to be certified, it's a total shit show. Gonzalo charges me 80US per day exclusive, I assume that rate can be negotiated for a larger group. 1-2 extra people for a 4 man team would be ideal. I am also fluent in Spanish.

chrisjahn77 wrote:I live in Bolivia, part Bolivian myself. Climbing June/July Huayna's East French route, Illimani & Sajama's normal. Going with Gonzalo Jaimes (Bolivia's UAIGM instructor) whom I have climbed with before and is held in high regard by the climbing community here. Anyone interested please let me know. There's an infinite supply of cheap guides in Bolivia who get people killed. There are also expensive ones who pretend to be certified, it's a total shit show. Gonzalo charges me 80US per day exclusive, I assume that rate can be negotiated for a larger group. 1-2 extra people for a 4 man team would be ideal. I am also fluent in Spanish.

Aah, Cochabamba - what a great place! It's like the San Diego of Bolivia (return Antofagasta to Bolivia!). chrisjahn, you are a lucky guy, I'd love to get back to Bolivia. We stayed in Coch numerous times at the Hotel Boston, do you know? My first ever trip we went to the top of Tunari. Eduardo Mamani guided me to the top of Huayna Potosi, pequeno Alpamaya, and Jank U laya, a great guy and incredible climber. I also got to meet Yossi Brain a number of years back. Perhaps we shall meet one warm, sunny day at the foot of el Christo!

Saludos!

I can also recommend Eduardo Mamani. I just finished doing Pico Tarija and Huayna Potosi (12th June 2011). Eduardo was an excellent guide. Everything from the airport pickup, lodging, and climbing related activities were arranged flawlessly. The plan was flexible and everything worked out great.