SummitPost.org

AndyJB444 wrote:Hi Guys,

Any update on conditions? Are those south faces stabilizing?

Not sure about all of them, but my friend and I climbed South Face (Jaeger route ED1) of Chacraraju and it was great. (thin un-protectable ice in places, but mostly ok). That was about a week ago or so.

http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2013/0 ... e-ed1.html

Also climbed La Esfinge 2 days ago. Awesome climb! Considered a big wall, but took us only 8 hours. Supposedly speed record was 7hrs in 2000.
http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2013/0 ... -511c.html

Having a good time here so far.

Congrats Vitaliy and Hamik, you're doing some great stuff out there.

Mind you, after reading your Chacraraju report I wouldn't want to join that climb even if my skills were up for it (they fall far short), for my own risk acceptance isn't high enough, but that doesn't mean I don't admire you guys for what you're doing out there. Keep rockin' !

Cheers, Rob

That's all Photoshop work; we caught them coming down off the regular route on Pisco in tears, knees shaking. Hamik was begging Cheburashka to carry his pack...again..just pathetic...

(They're off to tackle Cayesh now, so expect more great things)

A local guide told me there's a huge crevasse preventing passage to the summit on Chopicalqui. Anyone confirms?

Cissa wrote:A local guide told me there's a huge crevasse preventing passage to the summit on Chopicalqui. Anyone confirms?

No, that's not true. I summited today. There are a few crevasses you jump over on the way up. But nothing too huge. Good luck.

Addition: http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2013/0 ... m-and.html

Thanks for the info and the great reporting. I guess I'm putting Chopi back on the list then.

Just got back from the Blanca yesterday. Nice mountains and nice people (the Peruvians NOT the brit that runs Chilli Heaven), but was a bit dissapointed by the amount of crap (literally) everywhere from both humans and animals. Did my best to stay healthy, but still had a to fight a bout of giardia. Antibiotics got me back on my feet quickly luckily.

Also heard the same about the crevasse on Chopi, which made us look at other climbs instead. I think if I go back I'd go in early July. But will I go back?? Meh...

AndyJB444 wrote:Just got back from the Blanca yesterday. Nice mountains and nice people (the Peruvians NOT the brit that runs Chilli Heaven), but was a bit dissapointed by the amount of crap (literally) everywhere from both humans and animals. Did my best to stay healthy, but still had a to fight a bout of giardia. Antibiotics got me back on my feet quickly luckily.

Also heard the same about the crevasse on Chopi, which made us look at other climbs instead. I think if I go back I'd go in early July. But will I go back?? Meh...

Mmmmmmmmm.... Chili Heaven....