deathzonescience wrote:Alpamayo rapid ascent expedition is planned for mid July. This is a private expedition with myself and a very experienced Peruvian Andes climber. Thoughts please regarding limited acclimatization time and other potential pit falls of this itinerary?
1. USA - Lima
2. Lima - Huaraz
3. Huaraz to Corral Camp
4. Corral Camp to base camp
5. base camp to moraine camp
6. moraine camp to col camp
7. col camp to summit to base camp
8. base camp to Huaraz
9. Huaraz to Lima.
Gearing up for Alpamayo ascent round two. Last year's failed summit attempt was due to a storm cell spitting snow and ice while camping in the Moraine, which halted all summit attempts for the following two days afterwards. The tight itinerary did not allow extra days for weather deterioration or time for acclimation causing AMS symptoms. New Itinerary is listed below:
July 20 M OKC to Lima,
July 21 T Lima to Huaraz by bus arriving at night
July 22 W Huaraz acclimatization day
July 23 R Huaraz to intermediate camp
July 24 F Intermediate camp to base camp
July 25 S base camp to moraine camp to base camp (if positive for AMS)
July 26 S base camp to moraine camp
July 27 M moraine camp to col camp
July 28 T col camp to summit to base camp
July 29 W extra weather day
July 30 R extra weather day
July 31 F base camp to Huaraz to overnight bus to Lima
Aug 01 S arrive in Lima in AM fly home to OKC that night
Aug 02 S Arrive in OKC in the AM