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Hi Everyone!

I'm planning to climb Aconcaugua via the Polish Direct route but i'm having trouble picking a company to go with due to reviews online.

Can anyone recommend a company that is known to be good/provide a good service?

I have read that Daniel Alessio runs a tight ship but I can't seem to find much info to back that up.

Some other ones I have come across include:

http://www.fieldtouringalpine.com
http://www.grajales.net/aconcagua
https://www.patagonicas.com
http://www.aconcaguaexpeditions.com/

Thanks guys!

I used Grajales earlier this year for logistics on the mountain and they were very good. They did everything they said they were going to do, on time, and for a fair price. I would recommend them. We didn't have a guide on the mountain, so I can't speak to that. We went on the False Polish route.

You're on the right track, by doing your due diligence, but I would suggest that, regardless of which guide service you select, here are some things you might consider:

1. The percentage of climbers who "intend" to attempt the Polish Direct vs. those who actually get on the route is very low, especially with guide services.

2. Be very clear on how your Polish Direct trip is to be organized-- meaning I would be cautious about joining a team of climbers that is attempting the Falso, while the guide service is assuring you that you'll have a chance to break off and attempt the Polish Glacier.

I might be off by a bit, but I would guess that maybe 5% of climbers who intend to climb the Polish actually do and most don't even attempt it, as it is rarely in condition. When it is "in," it is a great climb, but just be prepared to be flexible and consider yourself lucky if it's in good shape when you get up high. The glacier has changed a bit in recent years, and if the trend continues, it will be significantly harder to get up the Direct, due to a big crack working its way north across the route.

There are guide services out there that will sell you the Polish Glacier trip, but the administrators and the guides are all of the same mind, namely that they are betting that you'll not even touch the route, because of the statistically low probability of it being in shape. Therefore, it is easier and more cost effective to just add you to a Falso trip.

The model goes something like: "Sure, you can join our False Polish trip on such and such a date, and when the team goes for the summit/high camp/traverse, you can go up the Direct with a guide!"

This model presents some problems for you, as you'll be with a group with climbers who have different goals. That alone can erode away at your own goals or create a weird dynamic among the group. Hopefully, the guide service has sent along a guide who is skilled enough to lead you up the route, if it is in shape, but we've seen otherwise over the years... In such cases, it is fairly easy for the guides to convince you that the route isn't in shape, because- heck-- they are the experts, right?

My point here is that you should look for a trip that is dedicated to attempting the Polish. Such a team will have the flexibility to wait for improving conditions or weather, and have all the necessary kit for an attempt. The combination team I described above is fraught with challenges and rarely have success. You still might not set foot on the route, but if you want to climb it, set yourself up for the greatest possible chance of success.

I should qualify all of the above by disclosing that I write this as a guide who has led teams up the peak over the past 18 years and as an owner of a guide service that has teams heading up this season as well. It is a great climb when it is in condition, but climbers should have a clear understanding of their actual chances of climbing it, and of the structure of the team that they will join.

Get after it and best of luck!!

Todd,
You need to post more ! Great advice from someone who knows...

Dan and his guides are world class.

If you do decide to go the normal route don't overlook INKA. They by far have the biggest base camp and amenities. With that said, if you do decide for the far better chance at summitting and heading up the normal route would you even require a guide?

You may get away with just some of their services to get you and your gear to Mulas or use them for a bunk or food which would in turn give you access to their water and toilets.

Either way, good luck and be safe.