Page 1 of 1

Climbing Mera Peak Nepal

PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 7:37 pm
by crosscountryclimber
I'm new to the forums and am looking to climb Mera peak possibly this November. I've posted some information in the asia climbing partners section but am also looking for some general climbing info on Mera.

Most climbs I do are solo and without a guide- I usually meet up with people at base camp and either split a guide or trek out on my own, with the enjoyment of meeting different people in different climbing parties throughout the trek.

My question is: For Mera is this climbing style a possibility? It's a longer climb so I know most climbers hire sherpas but my normal style is packing light and moving quickly. What are the technical requirements for Mera? Are crampon and ice ax skills enough or is there more experience needed with ropes?

What's the shortest amount of time that should be budgeted for climbing, including travel from the US?

I just recently climbed Orizaba in Mexico and am getting the itch to get back out again. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Re: Climbing Mera Peak Nepal

PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 5:46 am
by Norris
Take a look at this photo. Are you sure you want to do glacier travel solo, unroped? Not wise.
https://alpineclub.org.nz/image/descending-climbers-amid-large-crevasses-mera-peak-nepal

Re: Climbing Mera Peak Nepal

PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 4:10 pm
by bserk
have you checked http://www.summitpost.org/mera-peak/150229 ? Except Orizaba what have you climbed solo?

Re: Climbing Mera Peak Nepal

PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 3:27 pm
by crosscountryclimber
To clarify, I'm not planning on summiting solo- I'm just really trying to explore my options outside of joining an expedition type travel agency. Is there a way to be connected with a guide in Lukla and carry your own gear and equipment from there? I would also be interested in sharing a climbing permit with another smaller group if possible.

Most trek schedules look like they take 14 days or so just to to summit- is this necessary for acclimatization or can the trek be done faster depending on how one is feeling?

Re: Climbing Mera Peak Nepal

PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 6:47 am
by bserk
crosscountryclimber wrote:To clarify, I'm not planning on summiting solo- I'm just really trying to explore my options outside of joining an expedition type travel agency. Is there a way to be connected with a guide in Lukla and carry your own gear and equipment from there? I would also be interested in sharing a climbing permit with another smaller group if possible.

Most trek schedules look like they take 14 days or so just to to summit- is this necessary for acclimatization or can the trek be done faster depending on how one is feeling?

Well if you are looking for basecamp services only than look no further :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

There are a couple of companies who provide that, I'll send you a PN with my personally preferred one.

Re: Climbing Mera Peak Nepal

PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 12:13 am
by radson
crosscountryclimber wrote:Most trek schedules look like they take 14 days or so just to to summit- is this necessary for acclimatization or can the trek be done faster depending on how one is feeling?


Yes, with all your experience in Mexico, you should just push on as fast and high as possible :p

Re: Climbing Mera Peak Nepal

PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 5:56 pm
by crosscountryclimber
After doing more research, I've decided on doing a trek outside of Kathmundu instead of attempting a summit of Mera or Island- With 14 days I think I'm too limited with my time.

Does anyone have any recommendations on treks? I've been looking at Annapurna Base Camp and Annapurna Sanctuary. Are there any options for climbing smaller peaks along the way for any of these (or other) treks?

Thanks for all the info.

Re: Climbing Mera Peak Nepal

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 12:23 am
by radson
is the 14 days KTM to KTM? You should have time and a safe acclimatisation schedule to try Island Peak or Lobuche in that time.

Re: Climbing Mera Peak Nepal

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 3:00 am
by Scott
Are there any options for climbing smaller peaks along the way for any of these (or other) treks?


Poon Hill. There are smaller peaks surrounding the Annapurna Sanctuary. Tharpu Chuli is probably the most well known:

http://www.summitpost.org/tharpu-chuli/155052

Re: Climbing Mera Peak Nepal

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 11:39 am
by selinunte01
crosscountryclimber wrote:After doing more research, I've decided on doing a trek outside of Kathmundu instead of attempting a summit of Mera or Island- With 14 days I think I'm too limited with my time.

Does anyone have any recommendations on treks? I've been looking at Annapurna Base Camp and Annapurna Sanctuary. Are there any options for climbing smaller peaks along the way for any of these (or other) treks?

Thanks for all the info.


If you want to do Annapurna circuit, you can climb Kang La and the small summit above the pass,Ice Lake and some Peaks behind it and Thorong Ri, which requires crampons and ice axe and good snow and weather condition.
Cheers, Michael

Re: Climbing Mera Peak Nepal

PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 4:32 am
by Norris
I think Dolma Ri would be a good option for you. It's 19k ft (5800 meters). Check out this write-up from National Geographic:
http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/trips/best-trails/worlds-best-summit-hikes/#/dolma-ri-nepal_91185_600x450.jpg