SummitPost.org

hello,


I am looking for information about the alpine route (NW-face) of Great Trango Tower in Karakoram, Pakistan.

Any information, even pics are welcomed!

thanks

hans

If by 'alpine route' one means the non-big wall route, then there are no links relevant to that route on the page.

This route has been climbed a number of times, has old fixed rope in it, much 40-50 degree terrain, no big-wall climbing, but some serious objective danger. It was the route used by Australian base-jumping teams in 1992 and 2001. The 1992 jump from GT remains the highest ever base-jump (highest as in altitude, at least). See the award-winning film Baseclimb, or Baseclimb2. Contact www.baseclimb.com

Amical Alpine are guiding it this year.

D

I was on it in May of 1988. This camp at about 17,500 feet/5300m is where I stopped due to altitude sickness. My partner went solo to maybe as close as 25 feet from the summit, but turned around because the ridge was double-corniced and he couldn't see in the storm.
Andy Selters lives about 30 miles from me; we spoke with him and saw his slides before our trip. He says they climbed 5.7 rock, but their trip was later in summer. In May we had snow all the way and never used the ropes. I can scan some some photos later and provide more info.

The only info I can add is a new route put up by two Slovakian lads. take a look at http://www.greattrango.expedition.sk/ Yes it is in Slovakian but maybe the photos and who knows what else can help you out. They climbed the route in Alpine style. If you need a translation of the page I can translate it for you.