Beginner mountaineering in Washington

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Washington and Oregon. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Pacific Northwest Climbing Partners section.
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Nwinters72

 
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Beginner mountaineering in Washington

by Nwinters72 » Mon May 13, 2019 6:54 pm

I'm looking to see some glaciers in the north cascades i do a little bit of scrambling here and there. I'm summiting Eldorado peak this summer and looking to find another peak with glaciers and doable under class 3.

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: Beginner mountaineering in Washington

by ExcitableBoy » Tue May 14, 2019 8:18 pm

Eldorado is surrounded by some of the largest glaciers in the park, so that is a good first choice. Cascade River Valley is one of the most spectacular and accessible spots in the North Cascades, but much of the climbing is of a technical nature, so I would recommend driving a bit and seeing another area of the park.

Mt Ruth-Icy Peak traverse. Definitely glaciers, not under class three (one pitch of mid 5th on Icy), but you can skip the final pitch to the summit block of Icy and just enjoy the scenery, which includes the Price Glacier and Nooksack Cirque of Mt. Shuksan.

Mt. Shuksan. You shouldn't miss Shuksan, really one of the gems in the North Cascades crown. You can climb the Sulfide Glacier and find a class 3 route on the summit pyramid.

Mt. Forgotten, also approached via Cascade River Road is another thought. Glaciers, < class 3, long walk.

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seano

 
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Re: Beginner mountaineering in Washington

by seano » Tue May 14, 2019 9:50 pm

It's hard to beat Eldorado for scenic value per (approach + technical difficulty). If you don't mind a long (but easy and very scenic) approach, Glacier Peak from the North Sauk could be an option.

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uww

 
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Re: Beginner mountaineering in Washington

by uww » Mon Jun 17, 2019 7:50 am

ExcitableBoy wrote:
Mt. Forgotten, also approached via Cascade River Road is another thought. Glaciers, < class 3, long walk.


Awesome suggestions, but unless I'm mistaken, I think you meant something else- Mt. Forgotten is a great scramble but no glaciers and off Mountain Loop Highway. Just did it the other day. I only bring it up because I want to hear what you were thinking of. :D

It may be too late in the season for you, but there are some great easy snow scrambles in Mt. Rainier. To add to possible confusion, there is a Mt. Ruth that is nice and easy as well.

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: Beginner mountaineering in Washington

by ExcitableBoy » Tue Jun 18, 2019 6:04 pm

You are correct, I meant Mount Formidable, on the Ptarmigan Traverse.

Is the Mount Ruth you mention near Mount Baker, because that was the one I was thinking of, approached via Hannegan Pass.

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uww

 
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Re: Beginner mountaineering in Washington

by uww » Tue Jun 18, 2019 8:41 pm

I meant the "other" Mt. Ruth- the one in MRNP that is accessed from the White River campground or Sunrise. It's an easy one day snow scramble with great views.

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Re: Beginner mountaineering in Washington

by ExcitableBoy » Fri Jun 21, 2019 3:45 pm

Why are there so many Mt. Ruths? Are they all named after the same person?

Mt. Hunter or maybe Huntington was originally going to be named Mt. Ruth after the wife or daughter of a politician, but the name was applied to the Great Gorge, the Ruth Gorge, instead.


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