Taking a guess at Williamson conditions the next month

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markv

 
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Taking a guess at Williamson conditions the next month

by markv » Tue Jun 18, 2019 8:17 am

Hello, trusted climbers of Summitpost. I haven't checked here in awhile, but i used to get great advice here and even posted a couple trip reports of my own.

I'm planning a go at Williamson, traditional route from the Bowl, but a longer approach for fun from Kearsarge. Assuming we'd go end of July. Now however, with snow conditions, i'm wondering if there's any advantage to going sooner. I'm a pretty crappy climber on rock. To tell the truth, last time i did Tyndall but chickened out on Williamson, so this time i'm going with a friend who said he's happy to lead the chimney for me. However, i'm VERY comfortable on high angle snow, having done more snow mountaineering.

So, would you guess that the chimney would hold snow and be ok-doable with axe and crampons? How long for the snow to hang in there? Any random thoughts or advice? I'm all ears.

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bobpickering

 
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Re: Taking a guess at Williamson conditions the next month

by bobpickering » Tue Jun 18, 2019 5:26 pm

I don’t think the chimney is ever a snow climb. There may be considerable snow in the couloir below the chimney, and that snow may or may not be preferable to the rock (some of which will be loose). But the chimney will be rock climbing. And the large talus blocks between the top of the chimney and the summit will not be covered with snow.

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markv

 
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Re: Taking a guess at Williamson conditions the next month

by markv » Wed Jun 19, 2019 12:15 am

bobpickering wrote:I don’t think the chimney is ever a snow climb. There may be considerable snow in the couloir below the chimney, and that snow may or may not be preferable to the rock (some of which will be loose). But the chimney will be rock climbing. And the large talus blocks between the top of the chimney and the summit will not be covered with snow.


And the couloir isn't steep enough to warrant carrying axe and crampons all that way, right? I was on it about 10 years ago, no snow on it then, but i don't remember it being steep at all.

Sounds like late July would be better than sooner in that case. Not even figuring in Forrester Pass if we go that route.

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bobpickering

 
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Re: Taking a guess at Williamson conditions the next month

by bobpickering » Wed Jun 19, 2019 7:34 am

I’ve been up that couloir without crampons or axe in the middle of a warm day, but crampons and axe would be a good idea if there is a lot of snow or if you have to cross hard snow. In other words… it depends.

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lasvegaswraith

 
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Re: Taking a guess at Williamson conditions the next month

by lasvegaswraith » Fri Jul 12, 2019 11:25 pm

Bumping this thread... Anyone been through Shepherd's Pass in the last few weeks? Looking to determine snow level below and up to Shepherd's Pass. Headed up next weekend for Williamson-Tyndall tandem. Thx in advance for any data offered!


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