Monsters of the Wind IV+/V- UIAA 500 m. (Greece)

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Monsters of the Wind IV+/V- UIAA 500 m. (Greece)

by Mandragora » Sun Jul 05, 2020 7:49 am

Monsters of the Wind IV+/V- UIAA 500 m. – First Ascent of the South-West Ridge of Mount Ortholithi

Ever since I started my outdoor adventures, and especially climbing, I was always excited to repeat famous climbing routes that were first ascended by legendary greek and not only climbers.
All these years, I have been on several mountain peaks and lakes, I have climbed traditional routes, I’ve pushed my limits in sport climbing, I trained in Dry Tooling and of course I have done my favourite -of all- activity, winter mountaineering.

Having acquired all the knowledge (via dedicated mountaineering and climbing schools) and extensive experience (via the expeditions I have participated), it was about time to have a first ascent too.

Monsters of the Wind IV+/V- UIAA 500 m. – First Ascent of the South-West Ridge of Mount Ortholithi
On February 16, 2020, I climbed the entire South-West ridge of Mount Ortholithi.

Download the complete route description and Topo map in PDF (english)
https://olympusmountaineering.files.wor ... o_en-2.pdf

General route information
Monsters of the Wind” (IV+/V-, 500 m.) follows the south-western ridge of Mount Ortholithi, offering an atmospheric climb overlooking the Saronic Gulf and Ermionida. The route can be described as an “adventure route” with great potential for free route selection. The route also does not present any difficulties in terms of safety with the use of temporary protection.

Route description
R0 – R1
The route starts with the first pitch (35 m.) exactly at the base of the south-west ridge (37.525356, 23.234392) of a well-secured IV slab. Shortly before the slab is climbed, and as we enter a couloir, there are 3 meters of climb with grade IV + / V- and with a large loose boulder (attention!). The couloir is a bit shabby with loose rocks and the difficulty is IV UIAA. Having completed the couloir, we exit onto a ledge with rocks and make a belay with a large sling or a kevlar cordelette.


R1 – R2
From R1 to R2, the degree of difficulty is significantly reduced and until we find a characteristic slab of IV we can proceed without any rope protection.

R2 – R3
From R2 to R3, there is a IV UIAA grade passage on a slab about 4-5 meters tall. This passage is not very exposed and with a little care we reach a grassed slope. At this point, the view towards the Argosaronic sea begins to become unique.

R3 – R4
From R3 to R4, we follow (without being roped) the aesthetic ridge with stunning view to the Argosaronikos (east) mainly with scrambling of III+ grade. This part is almost 150 meters up to an obvious ledge, and it has a fairly low degree of danger and difficulty.

R4 – R5
From R4 to R5, there is another IV grade pass that starts as a dihedral (the first 3 m.) and ends to a rock wall/slab of about 4-5 meters. This passage can be well secured and protected.

R5 – R6
From R5 to R6, the terrain becomes very easy with a slope of up to 40 °, and is essentially a fairly uphill walk (with minimal scrambling).

R6 – R7
From R6 to R7, we’ll find a short slab (3m.) of IV degree difficulty that can eventually be climbed unroped (for experiences limbers), because it only has 2 IV degree movements.

R7 – Peak
Having reached R7, essentially the route is complete and we have about 90 m of hiking and scrambling of maximum III degree. At the top, we will find the old church of Profitis Elias, but also the “Monsters of the Wind” (wind turbines)

For full description, photos and a free route description document (with topo and useful coordinates) you can visit this page:
https://olympusmountaineering.wordpress ... rtholithi/

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Re: Monsters of the Wind IV+/V- UIAA 500 m. (Greece)

by mvs » Tue Jul 07, 2020 4:38 pm

Great stuff! Beautiful country, too.

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