Question of ideal wind condition to attack Aconcagua

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kotetsu

 
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Question of ideal wind condition to attack Aconcagua

by kotetsu » Thu Dec 14, 2017 12:33 am

Hi all,

I'm planning to climb Aconcagua without guide and friend starting from next weekend. (2017 Christmas holiday season)
By checking the weather forecast every so often, I realized the wind speed is between 45-100 km/hr (28-62 mil/hr) during the day time at the peak.
I also heard a weak "La Nina" occurs.

I have two questions:
1. What is the ideal wind speed range to attack the peak?
2. Is it hard to attack the peak this season because of La Nina?

If anyone knows Aconcagua ranger's recommendation and willing to share the information, I really appreciate it.
If you know any of above, please let me know.

Thanks,

kotetsu

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: Question of ideal wind condition to attack Aconcagua

by ExcitableBoy » Thu Dec 14, 2017 5:38 pm

When attacking a peak, wind velocity and direction are of utmost importance as it can greatly influence the trajectory of mortars, artillery, and sniper fire. Of course, as any military man will tell you, the most important consideration in an attack is maintaining the element of surprise. In that spirit perhaps you should not have announced your battle plans to attack Aconcagua on the internet where anyone may read them. At any rate, God speed and with any luck your attack will succeed and you will bring Aconcagua to heel.

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kotetsu

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Re: Question of ideal wind condition to attack Aconcagua

by kotetsu » Fri Dec 15, 2017 10:14 am

Thanks for sharing your thought.
Actually, I surprised that you use the term of military so much in your lines. Is this because that I use the term of “attack” instead of “summit”? If so, this is because my lack of English skill. If I offend you by using this term, I feel sorry about it. I’m not try to conquer Aconcagua but simply want to reach the top.

BTW, I found out several things after posing these questions.
At first, I misunderstand the velocity of the wind is “km/h” not “min/sec”. Then, I realized the velocity of the Aconcagua’s peak wind is about the same as that of Mt. Fuji (where I trained) right now. Therefore, I may not need to worry about it too much. On the other hand, I don’t have any idea of the wind direction at the peak of Aconcagua. I’m going to learn this from the rangers once I get there.

My other concern, La Niña, one article says “La Niña causes higher than normal rainfall in the central Andes.” I do not know the central Andes apply Aconcagua area, but I’ll just wait and see how it’ll turn out. Current weather is clear for a week, and usually the mountains weather change every a couple hours anyway.

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Re: Question of ideal wind condition to attack Aconcagua

by ExcitableBoy » Fri Dec 15, 2017 3:08 pm

kotetsu wrote:Actually, I surprised that you use the term of military so much in your lines. Is this because that I use the term of “attack” instead of “summit”? If so, this is because my lack of English skill. If I offend you by using this term, I feel sorry about it. I’m not try to conquer Aconcagua but simply want to reach the top.


My post was definitely in jest because of the term attack. I was having a bit of fun at your expense, I knew exactly what you meant. Terms like assault and conquer, military terms, are quite often used to describe one's intention to summit a peak.

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Re: Question of ideal wind condition to attack Aconcagua

by asmrz » Fri Dec 15, 2017 5:15 pm

From my experience, Aconcagua is very climbable in good weather conditions, impossible in bad. The fact that winds can be very strong, changes reasonable 7,000 meter peak conditions to horrific conditions that one rarely finds on other peaks of this height. I have never been as cold anywhere else (even almost 1,000 meters higher) than on Aconcagua in early 1998. Colder than Denali in April, colder than any peaks I have been on in Nepal and Pakistan. Some people will tell you that they climbed the regular route in approach shoes and light pile clothes, others describe arctic conditions of the worst kind. The difference is the weather and specifically, the wind. If it is windy, you go nowhere. If there is a strong El Nino in South America this January-March, you might find this ascent very complicated.

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Re: Question of ideal wind condition to attack Aconcagua

by kotetsu » Sun Dec 17, 2017 1:03 pm

ExcitableBoy wrote:I knew exactly what you meant. Terms like assault and conquer, military terms, are quite often used to describe one's intention to summit a peak.


Wow! "Assault" can be used in this situation?
That's surprising to me.
BTW, I'm glad you understand what I meant.

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Re: Question of ideal wind condition to attack Aconcagua

by kotetsu » Sun Dec 17, 2017 4:52 pm

Thank you for your comment.
How nice!

So, you’ve been Denali, Nepal and Pakistan!
I want to be there someday.

I heard similar story that Aconcagua could be similar to arctic condition.
So the time you’ve been Aconcagua is early 1998 while El nino was strong.

Currently La nina is weak. Also, the area is quite dried out. I’m expecting for not much snowing, but worry for windy condition as you described. I bought down jacket and pants only good for up to minus 70 degree Fahrenheit. My double shoes is only good for 20000 ft. My outfit might not good enough for Aconcagua. :cry:

I just pray to have nice calm weather. :)

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Nicolas

 
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Re: Question of ideal wind condition to attack Aconcagua

by Nicolas » Fri Dec 22, 2017 9:37 pm

A bit late to answer to you but.. I climbed Aconcagua the 10 of december this year. I had exceptional 10km wind at the summit, means nothing, very warm I had 3 light layers and I stayed 1h30min at the top! It is very often betweek 40 and 70km/h qnd i met people who climbed until 60km/h. It was cold but all right if not snowing.
At Nido de Condores you can ask the rangers the foreczst every day or ask any guide or agency with a radio!
Have fun

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Re: Question of ideal wind condition to attack Aconcagua

by kotetsu » Thu Mar 22, 2018 7:30 am

Nicolas wrote:A bit late to answer to you but.. I climbed Aconcagua the 10 of december this year. I had exceptional 10km wind at the summit, means nothing, very warm I had 3 light layers and I stayed 1h30min at the top! It is very often betweek 40 and 70km/h qnd i met people who climbed until 60km/h. It was cold but all right if not snowing.
At Nido de Condores you can ask the rangers the foreczst every day or ask any guide or agency with a radio!
Have fun


Thank you so much your reply, and sooooo sorry to being late response so much. :-(
My tent was collapsed by wind (over 40km/h) at C3 and couldn't make a summit. Fortunately, I wasn't blown away by wind.

Storm kept me away from summit, but my biggest problem was I couldn't make enough water and stay too long at C3.
That's made me HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) and HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema). I only realized after I came back home. Fortunately, I didn't push myself too far, so I survived and don't have any after-effect.

Ranger's, porter's and other guide's information and advice were quite helpful, and I should listen more. Indeed, I should not stay more than one night in the row at C3 especially when couldn't make enough water.

Hope someone can learn from my mistake and reach the top of Aconcagua safely. :)


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