Waiting in the Tetons

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Northern Rockies. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Northern Rockies Climbing Partners section.
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builttospill

 
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by builttospill » Thu Jun 17, 2010 3:33 am

I re-read Seano's post. Like I said, if you can downclimb Drizzlepuss and don't need any gear (or even just a light rope to rap and no rack), that would make it more feasible. Plus being in ridiculous shape would help. I'm in terrible shape right now, so the thought of that kind of week in the Tetons makes me hurt just thinking about it.

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cp0915

 
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by cp0915 » Thu Jun 17, 2010 2:44 pm

builttospill wrote:
cp0915 wrote:I don't see a big deal, assuming a high level of fitness and a reasonable amount of technical ability. The route-finding on Moran is trivial.

You can knock out Buck in a 5 hour car-to-car, then go and grab your canoe. Next day, Moran could be done in 12 hours car-to-car. It's simply not that long a route. Then do another half-day peak the next day so that you can lose the canoe.


I agree it's not that long of a route. I was in decent but not great shape when W. and I did it from the lakeshore and back in a day and I found it pretty rough. But adding a canoe ride onto both sides of that, complete with portages, would be hard for most people I think. I don't doubt it can be done (I'm sure it HAS been done, probably several times) but putting it in the middle of an otherwise very hard week in the Tetons is probably asking a bit much.

Maybe I just found the canoe ride harder than most people, but it wore me out.

If you could go without any technical gear at all it might make it more feasible.


I am a consistent moderate-to-fast mover with average technical ability. A few years ago, I car-to-car'd Buck in a bit under 6 hours (including a break on the summit, stopping to help a pair of off-route hikers on the return, and a run-in with a bear and her cub). I then went into Jackson and picked up a canoe for the next day's activities (with Walt, incidentally).

Last year, a partner and I took 90 minutes to canoe from the parking lot to the landing at the base of Moran (no wind). It then took us a bit less than 2 hours to hike up to the CMC camp (with full packs). Next morning, it was 3 hours from camp to the summit (carrying a single thin rope for the rap off Drizzlepuss and two later near the bottom of the face, moving at a casual pace; the face is super easy and there was simply no reason to pitch it out; we soloed the whole ascent and downclimbed most of the descent). We were back to camp in another 2.5 hours. After breaking camp, it was another hour to the canoe. 110 minutes to canoe back to the car (windy).

My math comes out to roughly 11.5 hours (for me and my partner, with overnight packs). And from what I've read, seano's in far better shape than I am. I bet he'd have enough gas to bag another half-day peak the following day and drop off his canoe.

Someone said something about this being ridiculous. In what way, I wonder.

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builttospill

 
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by builttospill » Thu Jun 17, 2010 3:13 pm

You're right, doing things like Buck would make it reasonable to get a canoe and if you know where you're going then the CMC could definitely be done quickly assuming you're a decent canoer and have decent conditions. I've never done Buck but Teewinot's E Face went similarly quick for us despite plenty of elevation gain.

I guess I'd be pretty impressed by doing those kind of days, at that kind of speed, back-to-back-to-back-to-back-to-back, etc, but I don't recover that well day to day. A lot of people do, though, so more power to them.

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cp0915

 
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by cp0915 » Thu Jun 17, 2010 3:23 pm

builttospill wrote:I guess I'd be pretty impressed by doing those kind of days, at that kind of speed, back-to-back-to-back-to-back-to-back, etc, but I don't recover that well day to day. A lot of people do, though, so more power to them.


I'm sure you're familiar with the Sierra Challenge...

Regardless, it's all good. I'm sure seano will have a terrific time, no matter what and how much he gets done.

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builttospill

 
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by builttospill » Thu Jun 17, 2010 3:27 pm

Yeah, and those guys are ridiculous. That kind of suffering day after day is not for me, much as I'd like to try it some day.

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cp0915

 
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by cp0915 » Thu Jun 17, 2010 3:35 pm

While we're on the subject of 'ridiculous', dig this outrageous trip report:

http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/5 ... nk-up.html

Note who wrote it.

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seano

 
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by seano » Thu Jun 17, 2010 7:34 pm

cp0915 wrote:I'm sure you're familiar with the Sierra Challenge...

Regardless, it's all good. I'm sure seano will have a terrific time, no matter what and how much he gets done.

As long as I get some decent weather and at least do the Grand, I'll be happy with whatever else I can get. And yes, I'm using last year's Sierra Challenge as a measure of what I can survive and enjoy.

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seano

 
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by seano » Thu Jun 17, 2010 7:41 pm

F_Rhoderick wrote:Have you considered the Cathedral Traverse? I've not done it but sounds like it may be up your alley.

This one? It looks totally sweet, but 5.7-5.8 is a bit outside my soloing comfort zone for now.

EDIT: The last day of the grand traverse looks like it might be a good scramble as well.

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rasgoat

 
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by rasgoat » Thu Jun 17, 2010 10:32 pm

I suppose there are some people out there that could endure such a schedule and have fun. :shock:

Y'all are way tougher than me!

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by jomal » Fri Jun 18, 2010 11:28 pm

Was in the Tetons Sunday Monday and found lots and lots of snow from the entrance to Garnet Canyon up. Conditions were good in the morning (Monday) and really loose and wet-slidey later in the day. We climbed Irene's, which was completely dry. Descent through SW was entirely snow and a little dicey setting off some point-releases.

Skis would have been nice...

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by TomSellick » Sun Jun 20, 2010 3:52 am

Warming up out here folks - still a lot of snow on the ground higher up. Planning some kind of hike / scramble early next week. Probably something easy like Static. Will report back with conditions.

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arm

 
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Middle Teton via SW Couloir

by arm » Fri Jul 02, 2010 1:51 am

we backpacked in to Garnet Canyon Meadow on june 23, and climbed SW Couloir to Middle Teton on june 24

straight-forward snow gully climb up SW Couloir, crampons and ice axe ... snow was solid in early morning, posthole raisin bran by noon ... one other group had belayed one of their party down the chute, he didn't feel comfortable about the exposure

met a group of four who had made it up the Grand via Owen-Spalding, said they tossed a couple ice screws in on their climb

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seano

 
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by seano » Wed Jul 07, 2010 7:29 pm

For anyone in the area, I'm in Lupine Meadows the next 4 days or so, tentatively doing the following in no particular order: Koven on Owen, Teewinot, the Grand (we'll see...), and a traverse from Middle Teton south aways. If you're comfortable doing any of these solo and relatively fast, or have some other cool roped suggestions you'd be willing to lead (<= 5.9), feel free to get in touch. I'm not sure about internet access (the bar near Moose has it, but that's a nuisance), but look for the white SUV with NM plates at Lupine TH.

EDIT: Koven's dry rock on the first pitch, and mostly snow after that. Not bad, but not for much longer.

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