webbing size for tied slings

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Snowslogger

 
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webbing size for tied slings

by Snowslogger » Wed Mar 30, 2011 11:09 pm

I'm looking to replace a few old 1" tied slings for taking on alpine mountaineering-type climbs (also have various spectra/dyneema slings). Are people mostly using the 9/16" webbing these days? Any opinions (and references) welcome. I like to have some tied slings that I can use for use building/backing up rapel stations, etc. if needed.

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JJBrunner

 
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Re: webbing size for tied slings

by JJBrunner » Wed Mar 30, 2011 11:25 pm

Snowslogger wrote:I'm looking to replace a few old 1" tied slings for taking on alpine mountaineering-type climbs (also have various spectra/dyneema slings). Are people mostly using the 9/16" webbing these days? Any opinions (and references) welcome. I like to have some tied slings that I can use for use building/backing up rapel stations, etc. if needed.

I have a bunch of 2' slings tied from 9/16" webbing. They are very bulky to take on alpine stuff(I triple them up with two biners). I think a lot of it has to do with the fact that they are all the same color. Makes it seem like a lot. I carry a good amount of untied webbing when I'm on something where I'll need to build or backup rap stations.

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: webbing size for tied slings

by ExcitableBoy » Wed Mar 30, 2011 11:35 pm

9/16" is pretty standard.

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MoapaPk

 
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Re: webbing size for tied slings

by MoapaPk » Thu Mar 31, 2011 12:02 am

Where do you get 9/16" climb spec webbing these days? Most stuff sold as 9/16" is actually 15mm.

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Re: webbing size for tied slings

by Autoxfil » Thu Mar 31, 2011 1:10 am

What's the difference? It's only 5% wider - can't imagine that would impact anything.

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Re: webbing size for tied slings

by aglane » Thu Mar 31, 2011 1:32 am


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MoapaPk

 
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Re: webbing size for tied slings

by MoapaPk » Thu Mar 31, 2011 1:41 am

aglane wrote:http://www.rei.com/search?search=9%2F16+webbing


Yep, and it's actually 15 mm. I have checked it out -- you can buy it and it comes with a 15 mm tag.

The old 9/16" supertape was about 20% lighter than 15mm.

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Snowslogger

 
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Re: webbing size for tied slings

by Snowslogger » Thu Mar 31, 2011 2:32 am

Thanks all. Kinda what I thought, but good to have it confirmed by a bunch of strangers on the internet. :) I guess it might take up less space to bring a length of untied webbing to be used as needed, along with regular thin spectra or dyneema slings.

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Steve Larson

 
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Re: webbing size for tied slings

by Steve Larson » Thu Mar 31, 2011 4:41 am

If you're not planning on using it for actual slings while climbing I'd strongly suggest bringing an uncut length and a knife. That way you can use only what you need to back up or build a new rap station, and you won't get caught with too short a length.

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Re: webbing size for tied slings

by SKI » Thu Mar 31, 2011 1:09 pm

Steve Larson wrote:If you're not planning on using it for actual slings while climbing I'd strongly suggest bringing an uncut length and a knife. That way you can use only what you need to back up or build a new rap station, and you won't get caught with too short a length.


This is pretty solid advice.

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Re: webbing size for tied slings

by ExcitableBoy » Thu Mar 31, 2011 3:47 pm

Steve Larson wrote:If you're not planning on using it for actual slings while climbing I'd strongly suggest bringing an uncut length and a knife. That way you can use only what you need to back up or build a new rap station, and you won't get caught with too short a length.


This is good advice. I usually take 8-10 sewn, single spectra runners, and two doubles. I carry a couple of 6 mil prussiks and 20 meters of uncut 6 mm for cutting up for rappel anchors on most alpine routes.

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Re: webbing size for tied slings

by Snowslogger » Thu Mar 31, 2011 5:36 pm

ExcitableBoy wrote:
Steve Larson wrote:If you're not planning on using it for actual slings while climbing I'd strongly suggest bringing an uncut length and a knife. That way you can use only what you need to back up or build a new rap station, and you won't get caught with too short a length.


This is good advice. I usually take 8-10 sewn, single spectra runners, and two doubles. I carry a couple of 6 mil prussiks and 20 meters of uncut 6 mm for cutting up for rappel anchors on most alpine routes.


Thanks, good stuff. One minor question, why 6mm cord rather than webbing?

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: webbing size for tied slings

by ExcitableBoy » Thu Mar 31, 2011 5:57 pm

Snowslogger wrote:Thanks, good stuff. One minor question, why 6mm cord rather than webbing?


I personally perfer 6mm to webbing for a number of reasons:

- 6 mm perlon makes great Prusik cords
- I find it easier to thread 6 mm perlon through a v-thread than webbing
- Cord is very versatile : you can pull the core out and use the sheath as boot laces or pull out individual strands of the core for emergency fishing line, thread for repairs, etc.
- 6 mm perlon is 40% lighter than 9/16" tubular webbing and is plenty strong enough for rappel anchors

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Re: webbing size for tied slings

by MoapaPk » Thu Mar 31, 2011 7:15 pm

According to Bluewater specs, 50' of 6mm perlon should weigh 13.7 oz. From my postal scale, 50' of 15 mm climb-spec (wider than 9/16") weighs 14.7 oz. However, the webbing has a substantially higher breaking strength -- at least a factor of 2.

A chacun son gout.

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Re: webbing size for tied slings

by ExcitableBoy » Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:16 pm

MoapaPk wrote:According to Bluewater specs, 50' of 6mm perlon should weigh 13.7 oz. From my postal scale, 50' of 15 mm climb-spec (wider than 9/16") weighs 14.7 oz. However, the webbing has a substantially higher breaking strength -- at least a factor of 2.

A chacun son gout.

According to the REI Web site Bluewater 6mm cord weighs 7.9 grams/ft and has a breaking strength of 7.7 kn wheras as Bluewater 9/16" tubular weighs 12.8 grams/ft and has a breaking strength of 9 kn. While I have not weighed samples myself, 6mm feels considerably lighter than 9/16" tubular.

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