Here's a pic of user pvalchev leading WI4 in Canada wearing a pair of strap-on Petzl Vasaks -



Granted that was a while back -- a few years later I saw him lead WI5 in Petzl Sarkens, and he's now wearing M10's. But still ..

This guy was climbing a WI4+ pillar wearing the exact same crampons (strap-on vasaks) -



So it is not necessarily the gear that is holding you (or me) back

There's certain pieces of gear, you've got them on, and you're Superman! Crampons are one of them. One of mine is the Grivel step ins.

Everything is easy when you're sitting on the tailgate of your car looking up at the local frozen waterfall. However, given your climbing objectives, you should consider which ones are easiest to put on in an extreme environment.

Consider this scenario. Your brain is whacked above 6000M. You're guzzling water and it's 50 deg below. To take off your mittens is to invite immediate frostbite. You've got a pack on, your tentmate is barfing and you've got very little space at the entrance to the tent. You really need to reach down and in one smooth move have them grab the toe and engage the lever at the back. So you can move on. What you really don't need is fussy gear.

Kristoria, I have climbed WI 6 in Sabretooth Pro, no worries, (although I do prefer Cyborgs for WI 5-6)....it sounds a bit like you might not be trusting your footwork/placements. As strong as Petzl is on tool design, many of us (who actually get out and climb steep ice) feel BD is on their crampon designs.

rhyang wrote:
During ice season it's pretty easy to sell lightly-used crampons on ebay for decent prices .. it's like peddling heroin to addicts

Exactly why I have M10's, G12's, 2 pairs of strap on, and now am wishing for a lighter pair of technical ice crampons. Don't care for aluminum. I'll carry the extra weight to avoid trashing them on rocks. I do need a new pair of ice tools, though... (Since my regular partner just tore his Achilles, maybe I can just borrow a pair or two of his for the season.)

Dow Williams wrote: As strong as Petzl is on tool design, many of us (who actually get out and climb steep ice) feel BD is on their crampon designs.

Design is one thing...Quality of Manufacturing counts far more in my book.

And most of us that climb anything with Ice & snow, including Mixed steep ice lines on a REGULAR basis, have done so for a longass time, KNOW, don't feel, that GRIVEL is the best in the business in both design, manufacturing quality and always has been.


Let's see, how many times has BD Recalled their PON's/TOOLS's over just the past 15 or so years? Along with all the assorted other climbing equipment on that Recall List....Yikes!

Now that BD Ice Gear is manu'd in CHINA with Chinese materials, WATCH OUT!

No need for the infamous EGO, DOW.

Happy New Year.


KristoriaBlack

Good call on the 14's! As you excel, you can shift from dual to mono with that design. Great Design feature/option on part of Grivel on this specific proven model that has been around for well over 15 years. As well as the Rambo's. Been using both on a regular basis for well over 15 years now.

mconnell wrote:

rhyang wrote:
During ice season it's pretty easy to sell lightly-used crampons on ebay for decent prices .. it's like peddling heroin to addicts

Exactly why I have M10's, G12's, 2 pairs of strap on, and now am wishing for a lighter pair of technical ice crampons. Don't care for aluminum. I'll carry the extra weight to avoid trashing them on rocks. I do need a new pair of ice tools, though... (Since my regular partner just tore his Achilles, maybe I can just borrow a pair or two of his for the season.)

Good, it sounds like you ditched those Stubai's you wore on Rainier ! Or are you using those to aerate your lawn now ?

btw Has anyone tried Grivel's copy of the Petzl Dart ? Err, I mean the G20 ..

http://www.grivel.com/products/ice/crampons/19-g20



Also looks like we may soon be seeing their answer to the Dartwin -

http://www.grivel.com/products/ice/crampons/21-g22

Rob...

Got a pair of the 20's on the way. Will let ya know.

Tried a pair last season on a couple of trips. Nice corresponding foot symmetry and pretty light. The Mono is offset inboard and lays directly under the big toe with a seudo stabilizing small outboard secondary that comes in very handy on those light touch required hook placements.

Great for those thin delicate mixed routes imo.

Dow Williams wrote: As strong as Petzl is on tool design, many of us (who actually get out and climb steep ice) feel BD is on their crampon designs.

Agreed...
The Sabertooth (old or new) will climb any ice, of any difficulty, anywhere.
Few crampons that are as versital.

To the OP: sharpen your points and get out more. I, and many of my friends and compatriots, have climbed many hard routes using Sabertooths. They aren't the problem. IMHO they aren't the greatest for cold waterfall ice, but they certainly do work.

rhyang wrote:
btw Has anyone tried Grivel's copy of the Petzl Dart ? Err, I mean the G20 ..



Also looks like we may soon be seeing their answer to the Dartwin -

http://www.grivel.com/products/ice/crampons/21-g22

They're okay. I've got very very few pitches in on them -- like 4 .25 pitches to be specific -- but I really like the springy thing.

As for who designs the best crampons, have a look at the design of next year's BD's...sure seem inspired the same way Grivel was...