Fantastic climb on N. Americas 3rd highest! after a couple days to acclimate at the hut at 14,000 feet.
One day ascent from Piedra Grande after acclimitizing on La Malinche and Iztaccihuatl. We left the hut at 1am with perfect conditions that continued all the way to the summit.
Following the trail up to the labyrinth and making our way through the labyrinth in the dark wasn't too dificult (we actually took a worse route on the way down in full daylight). The lower glacier was a little sloppy even though it was still dark out, but conditions improved the higher up we went.
The sun came up just before we made the crater rim and began a spectacular day with perfect weather and no wind. We took a few pictures at the summit and headed down for a 10-hour RT.
Went with two single guys that wanted to party and not acclimate (Steve and Jeff). Made 16,000 ft. not prepared, another time. Had a great time though, Veracruz was awesome.
Much more straight forward than I imagined. The only difficult part was the altitude.
With Blair F from PG - Espolon de Oro up, Jamapa Glacier down
And then a descent into a remote east side canyon and to the tropics.
Had great weather, the only downside was a trip to a not so good Mexican Taco stand a few days before. Yikes!
Made it to 17,000 feet on the Jamapa Glacier. Ezra Danciu summited. Not sure if I was getting altitude sickness or just wiped out from little sleep camping just below the Labrynth the previous night. Lots of snow the week before our arrival as well. Senor Reyes was scheduled to pick up us at 3PM and I just didn't have the pace to get up and back in time. Met a couple cool guys from Minnesota though and WILL be back one day for redemption!
Perfect weather to climb this great mountain.
Third time's the charm.
Took the straight route up to top, just between Jamapa Glacier and Espolon del Oro, where the face is the steepest. Six hours to the top from Piedra Grande. Nice to be the only climbers on the mountain that day.
Perfect views from the top. The crater rim is really impressive.
Climbed with Radek (brade).
This was my second 5,000er (Izta was my first). I really enjoyed it, this volcano has beautiful sights and the weather was just amazing. We started at 1am and got to the summit a couple of hours after sunrise. It was a december 12th which is a religious holiday in Mexico (Virgin Guadalupe's day) so plenty of people was at the top with almost no gear!!, I felt almost ridiculous with mine but they climbed thru the south face route which is far easier with almost no ice. We hired the services of Mr. Joaquin Canchola for accommodation in Tlachichuca and transport to Piedra Grande's Hut, he knows a lot about the mountain and he's pretty easy going if you don't mind some swearing :P
Not recommended unless you enjoy the following:
1) Sleepless nights
2) Heinous gas
A steady 20 mph wind from the start of the glacier to the summit. Except for some reason not the last 50 steps or so. No even the slightest breeze at the summit proper. Took some pictures had a bit to eat adjusted my gear and enjoyed the summit all to myself for 15 minuets - the warmest I had been all day. Was tempting not to nap.
windy and cold, otherwise pretty straight forward.
Richard and I started hiking ~2am and got up thru the snowy labyrinth and glacier and reached the summit just after sunrise to witness the amazing Pico pyramide shadow cover the Tlachichuc valley below. We got back to the hut ~11am and down to Tlachichuc around 1:30pm. Great day on Pico with great company on my new high point.
I climbed the normal route on Glaciar de Jamapa with my friends Herman de Backer and jerome Mison and our guide Javier from Roberto Flores (El Oso) logistics in a trip combining also Iztacihuatl.
We climbed the jamapa glacier route in 6h50 (10h15 round trip) with good conditions. Temperature was mild (-5 C in the night perhaps), summit's geight checked with GPS was 5648m , quite consistent with normal datas(but there were 2 meters snow on the top) pressure was 518 hpa.
Nice climb, quite steep for the last 300m, it should be climbed by a party familiar with easy climbing in crampons, and able to do a self arrest if needed.
it highly recommended to combine this climb with Izta first for acclimatization and some tourism (see my comment on Izta).
Quite a bit easier than I was anticipating, very nice trip & beautiful weather on the summit - wore a light fleece jacket at the top. Went with a group from RMI, nice accomodations at Senor Reyes compound in Tlachichuca. Happy to find Starbucks in Mexico City.
...with Annelen Kahl, Karl Domangue and Martin Peek, on 16-19 Jan' 2010, via the Jamapa Glacier Route - few hidden crevasses and long icy 40 degree plus stretches