Pico de Orizaba Climber's Log

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Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Mar 21, 2012 12:51 am Date Climbed: Mar 15, 2012

Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

Fantastic climb on N. Americas 3rd highest! after a couple days to acclimate at the hut at 14,000 feet.

cab

cab - Mar 5, 2012 3:15 pm Date Climbed: Mar 2, 2012

Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

One day ascent from Piedra Grande after acclimitizing on La Malinche and Iztaccihuatl. We left the hut at 1am with perfect conditions that continued all the way to the summit.

Following the trail up to the labyrinth and making our way through the labyrinth in the dark wasn't too dificult (we actually took a worse route on the way down in full daylight). The lower glacier was a little sloppy even though it was still dark out, but conditions improved the higher up we went.

The sun came up just before we made the crater rim and began a spectacular day with perfect weather and no wind. We took a few pictures at the summit and headed down for a 10-hour RT.

krrt2000

krrt2000 - Feb 26, 2012 9:18 pm Date Climbed: Nov 27, 1987

Jamapa

Went with two single guys that wanted to party and not acclimate (Steve and Jeff). Made 16,000 ft. not prepared, another time. Had a great time though, Veracruz was awesome.

DrewB

DrewB - Jan 17, 2012 11:55 pm Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2002

Great memories  Sucess!

Much more straight forward than I imagined. The only difficult part was the altitude.

Bill562

Bill562 - Jan 15, 2012 10:07 pm Date Climbed: Jan 12, 2012

Second time is the charm  Sucess!

With Blair F from PG - Espolon de Oro up, Jamapa Glacier down

CastillejaMiniata

CastillejaMiniata - Jan 14, 2012 9:51 pm Date Climbed: Dec 28, 2011

Standard Jamapa Glacier route.  Sucess!

And then a descent into a remote east side canyon and to the tropics.

mreiter1

mreiter1 - Dec 11, 2011 2:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2008

Suceess  Sucess!

Standard Route

hunterslee

hunterslee - Oct 23, 2011 1:43 am Date Climbed: Apr 2, 2010

Slug to the top  Sucess!

Had great weather, the only downside was a trip to a not so good Mexican Taco stand a few days before. Yikes!

ssbclimber

ssbclimber - Oct 8, 2011 2:12 am Date Climbed: Jan 23, 2009

Citlaltepetl

Made it to 17,000 feet on the Jamapa Glacier. Ezra Danciu summited. Not sure if I was getting altitude sickness or just wiped out from little sleep camping just below the Labrynth the previous night. Lots of snow the week before our arrival as well. Senor Reyes was scheduled to pick up us at 3PM and I just didn't have the pace to get up and back in time. Met a couple cool guys from Minnesota though and WILL be back one day for redemption!

jef80

jef80 - Jun 13, 2011 6:11 pm Date Climbed: Dec 20, 2009

Jamapa Glacier   Sucess!

Perfect weather to climb this great mountain.

mjp20k

mjp20k - Jun 6, 2011 5:57 pm Date Climbed: Feb 7, 1997

Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

Third time's the charm.

jck

jck - Mar 23, 2011 7:32 pm Date Climbed: Mar 14, 2011

Jamapa Direct  Sucess!

Took the straight route up to top, just between Jamapa Glacier and Espolon del Oro, where the face is the steepest. Six hours to the top from Piedra Grande. Nice to be the only climbers on the mountain that day.
Perfect views from the top. The crater rim is really impressive.
Climbed with Radek (brade).

Deschamps

Deschamps - Feb 3, 2011 3:51 pm Date Climbed: Dec 12, 2010

Impressive Mountain  Sucess!

This was my second 5,000er (Izta was my first). I really enjoyed it, this volcano has beautiful sights and the weather was just amazing. We started at 1am and got to the summit a couple of hours after sunrise. It was a december 12th which is a religious holiday in Mexico (Virgin Guadalupe's day) so plenty of people was at the top with almost no gear!!, I felt almost ridiculous with mine but they climbed thru the south face route which is far easier with almost no ice. We hired the services of Mr. Joaquin Canchola for accommodation in Tlachichuca and transport to Piedra Grande's Hut, he knows a lot about the mountain and he's pretty easy going if you don't mind some swearing :P

SJ

SJ - Dec 22, 2010 7:47 pm Date Climbed: Dec 18, 2010

Sea level to summit in 81 hours  Sucess!

Not recommended unless you enjoy the following:

1) Sleepless nights
2) Heinous gas
3) Windburn

SkydiveKen

SkydiveKen - Dec 20, 2010 7:50 pm Date Climbed: Dec 18, 2010

Pleasant Surprise  Sucess!

A steady 20 mph wind from the start of the glacier to the summit. Except for some reason not the last 50 steps or so. No even the slightest breeze at the summit proper. Took some pictures had a bit to eat adjusted my gear and enjoyed the summit all to myself for 15 minuets - the warmest I had been all day. Was tempting not to nap.

tb00957 - Nov 28, 2010 3:37 pm Date Climbed: Nov 26, 2010

Orizaba  Sucess!

windy and cold, otherwise pretty straight forward.

graham

graham - Nov 17, 2010 5:31 pm Date Climbed: Nov 12, 2010

Orizaba via the standard route

Richard and I started hiking ~2am and got up thru the snowy labyrinth and glacier and reached the summit just after sunrise to witness the amazing Pico pyramide shadow cover the Tlachichuc valley below. We got back to the hut ~11am and down to Tlachichuc around 1:30pm. Great day on Pico with great company on my new high point.

bruno baschung

bruno baschung - Nov 15, 2010 4:24 pm Date Climbed: Nov 12, 2010

glaciar de Jamapa  Sucess!

I climbed the normal route on Glaciar de Jamapa with my friends Herman de Backer and jerome Mison and our guide Javier from Roberto Flores (El Oso) logistics in a trip combining also Iztacihuatl.

We climbed the jamapa glacier route in 6h50 (10h15 round trip) with good conditions. Temperature was mild (-5 C in the night perhaps), summit's geight checked with GPS was 5648m , quite consistent with normal datas(but there were 2 meters snow on the top) pressure was 518 hpa.

Nice climb, quite steep for the last 300m, it should be climbed by a party familiar with easy climbing in crampons, and able to do a self arrest if needed.

it highly recommended to combine this climb with Izta first for acclimatization and some tourism (see my comment on Izta).

Bruno Baschung

DCcoug

DCcoug - Sep 3, 2010 4:44 pm Date Climbed: Dec 3, 2008

Nice & Easy  Sucess!

Quite a bit easier than I was anticipating, very nice trip & beautiful weather on the summit - wore a light fleece jacket at the top. Went with a group from RMI, nice accomodations at Senor Reyes compound in Tlachichuca. Happy to find Starbucks in Mexico City.

pratyush

pratyush - Jun 9, 2010 12:20 pm Date Climbed: Jan 19, 2010

summitted  Sucess!

...with Annelen Kahl, Karl Domangue and Martin Peek, on 16-19 Jan' 2010, via the Jamapa Glacier Route - few hidden crevasses and long icy 40 degree plus stretches

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