Pico de Orizaba Climber's Log

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Day Hiker

Day Hiker - Jan 11, 2006 2:23 am Date Climbed: Jan 9, 2006

Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

Did this climb with cp0915 and rwkent. We did our best to acclimate for this mountain by summiting La Malinche and Nevado de Toluca in the preceeding days, as well as hiking up to 15700 feet on the Orizaba trail the day before summit day.

After lying in the climbers' hut (13950 feet) for about 4 hours and getting maybe 15 minutes of sleep, I started up the trail at around 00:47. It took about 6.5 hours to summit, including rest stops and time to put on boots and crampons. Partially from the miserable lack of sleep, partially from climbing a 40-degree snow slope with 10 pounds of boots and crampons on my feet, and largely from the high elevation, I was completely exhausted by the time I reached the summit.

Gaiters were worn, but they turned out to be unnecessary because the snow was firm. The whole climb was done without one single posthole, which is good, considering the combined weight of body, clothing, and gear was about 270 pounds.

There was a steady cold breeze from the west during the entire climb up the glacier, which made me enjoy the times I was traversing to the east and dread the times I had to switch back and traverse to the west. At the summit, there was a steady 15-20mph breeze, and the temperature was somewhere around 10F, which really wasn't too bad for 18500 feet in January. The sky was completely cloud free. Although I was too tired to enjoy it, it was a beautiful day.

My GPS gave a time-averaged summit elevation of 18505 feet. This is my highest summit elevation to date, and it probably will be for a while, unless I do some traveling outside the continent of North America. The two mountains in North America that are higher require sleeping in a tent at -40F/C and not showering for 3 weeks.


pacojgarza - Jan 3, 2006 4:22 am

Route Climbed: Ruta Espinoza Date Climbed: December-29-2005  Sucess!

Reached the summit of Pico for the second time, this time as part of a team wisely guided by "Oso" Flores and aided by his wife Raquel and Lupe. We had to climb this variation of the "Espolon de oro" route since the normal route up the Jamapa Glacier was somewhat icy. The frigid temperatures (5°F) and the steeper slopes (50-55°) made for a long slog, fortunately the winds were very light and the skies clear. We were able to avoid the labrynt since the snow conditions in "el canalon" were still decent. We had very hazy skies towards Izta and Popo. This was the third of four volcanoes on my trip to Mexico.

Check my trip report for details.

fellersw - Dec 19, 2005 6:45 pm

Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: December 12, 2005  Sucess!

Since I don’t speak Spanish I arranged with Roberto Rodriguez “Oso” from Oriziba Mountain Guides http://www.orizabamountainguides.com.mx/ to climb La Milinche and Oriziba. Oso was wonderful, meeting me at the airport and arranging all ground transportation, food, water and lodging for 8 days. Completed an excellent climb of Oriziba with Michell, a guide from Peru that works for Oso. I highly recommend Oriziba Mountain Guides to anyone that doesn’t speak Spanish and wants to make a climbing trip to Mexico or South America stress free.

Mike Garside

Mike Garside - Dec 18, 2005 4:16 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 22 November 2005  Sucess!

7 out of our group of 8 sixty-plus year-old geriatrics made the summit on this perfect day. Not a cloud in the sky. We left the hut on the 21st and bivvied overnight just below the glacier on a flatish patch. It was a straight haul to the top with Diana, my 62-year old wife, hitting the summit first. Thanks Hector. Nice one!


snocat - Dec 15, 2005 10:58 pm

Route Climbed: Jamapa glacier Date Climbed: nov. 23,2005  Sucess!

a very enjoyable climb. I owe it to my friend Deb for motivating me to go and climb this mountain, and I am very happy to have had this oportunity to climb with such a wonderfull companion.


timfoltz - Dec 6, 2005 10:51 pm

Route Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: November 24, 2005  Sucess!

Started very early, and watched sunrise from the summit ridge.


gobriango - Nov 29, 2005 9:29 am

Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: Jan 2005  Sucess!

Climbed it twice in 3 days. (3hrs 56min) Had a great time with a bunch of new friends from SP. Perfect weather and perfect full moon. Didnt even need my headlamp.

Hikerchick63 - Nov 21, 2005 6:22 pm

Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: November 6, 2005  Sucess!

Climbed with Guilty, but not really, since I left the very noisy Piedra Grande Hut at 12:45 AM and Guilty didn't hit the trail 'til 4 AM. Nonetheless, he was on the summit within 30 minutes of my arrival up there and then proceeded to beat me down to the hut. Clear skies, but freezing wind chill factor. No altitude symptoms and up and down in 10 hours. Most excellent, SWEET adventure.

Dan Bailey

Dan Bailey - Nov 19, 2005 12:42 pm

Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: Nov 2005  Sucess!

With Joe Akeem. Beautiful easy route on a stunning peak, though next time I'd acclimatise for another day before the summit push...rarely have i felt so sick on a mountain


joe_akeem - Nov 18, 2005 5:25 pm

Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: November 12, 2005  Sucess!

With Dan Bailey in 9 hrs round trip from the hut. Fantastic weather, perfect conditions.


Guilty - Nov 14, 2005 10:28 pm

Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: November 6, 05

Left at 4am, and took a great digitial video of the whole route, especially the sunrise and inside the crater. I was back by 10:45am. This was my second time up the mountain. Met some wonderful climbers and locals. That was the best part, eating there food and watching them climb in there street clothes.


RModelli - Nov 14, 2005 4:25 pm

Route Climbed: Jamapa glacier/espolon Date Climbed: November 11, 2005  Sucess!

Very nice solo climb, the night was beautiful and the weather perfect. There was some snowfall a day before, and the snow was somewhat deeper in the summit cone, but still in very good cramponing condition.

It took me 7 hours and 30 minutes up to the summit and back down to the hut.


dkmayhew - Nov 13, 2005 8:40 pm

Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: December of 1998  Sucess!

This was my first international climbing trip. It was easy to organize. We stay at Senior Reyes and had a good experience. We were in Mexico for only 6 days. I wish we had more time to acclimate. I had quite the headache at 18,000 feet on summit day.

Bill Maxwell

Bill Maxwell - Oct 17, 2005 10:00 am

Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: 11th October 2005  Sucess!

Climbed the mountain with an excellent local guide (Roberto Flores Rodroguez) during a 4 day window in a business trip. We had the mountain to ourselves, but there was a lot of soft, unconsolidated snow. As a consequence we 'summited' in the Kanchenjunga sense, i.e. we reached the crater rim, but declined to do the last few yards along unconsolidated snow to the pile of metal at the 'true' summit. A great route - and I would also recommend the Limons in Tlachichuca for excellent hospitality and transport.

Seth Maciejowski

Seth Maciejowski - Oct 14, 2005 5:06 pm

Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: July 2004

Well, my new wife and I made it to 17,500' under bluebird skies with no one else on the mountain. AMS started bothering us so we weren't taking any chances and we went down. We had a difficult time finding a route through the glacier polished moraine since it has retreated so much in recent years. This is a great climb, a little different from your typical glacier slog with scrambling, scree and snow sections. Weather is more stable in the winter, but you can get lucky in the summer like we did and not another soul was on the mountain.

edl - Sep 25, 2005 3:05 pm

Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: Nov. 97  Sucess!

Great route. Easy glacier climb.


Peak_Bagger - Sep 9, 2005 5:06 pm

Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: Jan 24 2005  Sucess!

My 1st big peak. Went pretty smooth. Got a hitch with some Mexican climbers up to the hut. Took a rest day, then summited in 6hrs and were down in 4. Took a nice direct line up the galcier as the conditions were perfect.


althegreek - Jul 12, 2005 7:43 pm

Route Climbed: jamapa Date Climbed: january 2004  Sucess!

nice peak. straightforward. slog up the glacier. how did all the junk get on the summit?


MarieP - Jun 17, 2005 1:00 am

Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: Early January 2005  Sucess!

The route is streight forward in the daylight, just follow the ducks. We camped around 15,500 ft, there was almost no snow to melt. Senior Limon provided great service and prices.


mountainjunkie - Jun 13, 2005 7:02 pm

Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier (normal route) Date Climbed: January 24, 2005  Sucess!

Spent one night in Tlachichucha, then drove to Piedra Grande hut arrive around 3:30pm. Spend the night at the hut, hiked to the glacier the next day (1/23), then back to hut. Spend half a night at hut. Summitted at about 10:30am on 1/24/05 via the standard route going up from the hut at Piedra Grande. Woke at 1:00am to cold temperatures and icy conditions, but skies were clear and the summit was visible. Started climbing at 2am. I began w/ mild AMS, but it got better (or at least not worse) as we ascended. Reached the glacier at 16,200' after about 3 hours. Climbed glacier to crater rim, then traversed the rim to the high point. Beautiful summit w/ clear skies and spectacular views. I felt pretty good on the summit. No headache and only mild nausea. Got lost on the way down so it took over 5 hours to descend.

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