Pico de Orizaba Climber's Log

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Shirley Lam

Shirley Lam - Jul 26, 2007 4:13 pm Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2006

I like the dayhike...  Sucess!

Acclimatized on Izta and was able to do Orizaba as a dayhike.

This worked MUCH better than the previous year's multi-day attempt. We were dropped off at Hidalgo because it was raining so hard the 4WD vehicles couldn't make it up the roads. We camped at 12k, Piedra Grande, and at 15k (just before the Maze). By the time we got to the crater rim, we reached our turn-around time...early in the day since we had to hike all the way back to Hidalgo for our pick-up!

Although both trips were fun and memorable, I would definitely opt to repeat the dayhike.

deungsan

deungsan - Jul 16, 2007 1:40 am Date Climbed: Dec 6, 2000

Second Time's a Charm  Sucess!

Great trip, nice views, few dangers.

crzyjt

crzyjt - Jul 15, 2007 11:17 am

Jamapa

Attempted climb Thanksgiving 2005. Skipped acclimatization day due to incoming weather. Didn't quite make the summit turning around 800 feet below the crater. Will return soon.

dioid

dioid - Jul 4, 2007 6:37 am Date Climbed: Dec 23, 2006

Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

Climbed with Rinat. Super fast trip. San Diego to San Diego in four days. Very lacky with weather. Great trip.

pjc30943 - Apr 15, 2007 7:04 pm Date Climbed: Mar 24, 2007

standard route  Sucess!

A trip planned by SP member hashfxn.
Round trip from the huts was ~15 hours, in part due to slow going in the labyrinth. Summit at 10:30am, left at 1:30am.
The glacier was very solid, was not steep, and we left all our pro and rope at its base with no reservations. Temps were quite cold, and in general it was very windy--especially at the summit--but the sky was as clear as blue crystal... Very nice conditions overall.

doumall

doumall - Apr 5, 2007 5:24 pm Date Climbed: Mar 27, 2007

Well worth the trip  Sucess!

A memorable and smooth 48 hours on the mountain with my girl Debbie. Jampa Glacier route. Hung out and slept the first afternoon at Piedra Grande, acclimatization hike to 17000' the next day and back to camp, then next morning 6 hours from Piedra to the summit. Felt very strong until 18,000'. I think frequent winter trips in Colorado, tons of water and this acclimatization scheme were perfect prep for this mountain. Would have been ~45mins quicker if not for a lost bag of gear on our flight in, only one shotty headlamp through the labrinth was slow going.

Glacier is dying, was in very easy climbing condition with small penetites. Go soon, or this route will be a scree slog through and through. Teotihuacan, Mexico City urban and historic districs and Izta were also parts of this trip.

shanahan96

shanahan96 - Apr 5, 2007 12:16 pm Date Climbed: Mar 30, 2007

first glacier climb  Sucess!

jamie nellis and i summited oribaza(18,512') on march 30th 2007. this was a special summit for us. it was our first glacier together and a capper on a successful first international climbing expedition.

the mountain is flat-out gorgeous! unbelievable time!

jamie

El_Capitan - Mar 3, 2007 4:10 am Date Climbed: Feb 22, 2007

Follow the "Oso"  Sucess!

Climbed this with climbmn and another friend. Much thanks to the "Oso", Roberto Flores a local guide, for giving us directions all day and letting us follow him and his client up the mountain. Took a lot longer then I ever expected, 17 hours round trip. If you are thinking about Pico, I would highly suggest you hire "Oso" as your guide as his prices are quite reasonable and the routefinding can be tricky in the dark. We would not have been successful without his guidance (even though we weren't his paying clients).

Mescalito345

Mescalito345 - Feb 25, 2007 3:26 pm Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2007

Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

On 01/01/07, we woke up at midnight to attempt Orizaba. The winds had died down, but the valley below was covered in clouds. We put on crampons, and climbed up some icy chutes between the rocks. After climbing to about 16,000 feet, a thick fog moved in. It looked like we might have to turn around, but finally the clouds broke, and we could see the rising sun.

At around 6:00 a.m., we roped up and started the long slog up the glacier. The lower glacier was icy, and it was hard to penetrate the ice with an axe. We continued upwards at a slow but steady pace. I found that the cross-over step (French technique) worked the best on the steeper slopes. We finally reached the summit (18,500 feet) at around 10:00 a.m. The valleys below us were covered in clouds, but it was sunny on the peak. We took some pictures of the summit crater, and then headed back down.

Wallylongridge

Wallylongridge - Feb 18, 2007 7:29 pm Date Climbed: Oct 18, 1982

Jamapa glacier  Sucess!

Had a great time on this hill and met a lot of nice people.

highice - Feb 1, 2007 5:37 pm

first OC climb

one year after getting into mountaineering, I tried this peak in my first out-of-country climb, but turned around 1000 ft from the top due to a sick buddy. it was a white-out anyway with high winds, but a great experience!

Dave S

Dave S - Jan 8, 2007 7:53 pm Date Climbed: Jan 4, 2007

Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

Just about perfect weather matched with good snow conditions made for a great day on the mountain!

weeds19

weeds19 - Jan 4, 2007 10:38 pm Date Climbed: Jan 4, 2006

Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

Perfect weather and very solid snow on the glacier helped make this a strenuous, but uneventful climb. The glacier did get a little steeper than I expected.

Rinat Shagisultanov

Rinat Shagisultanov - Dec 27, 2006 7:06 pm Date Climbed: Dec 23, 2006

Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier to Ice Needle + traverse to the summit  Sucess!

Climbed from the high camp before entering the Labyrinth in good snow/ice conditions. Descended via Ruta Espinoza to the lower section of the glacier and returned to the camp. Made it in 4 days total from San Diego to the summit and back. This is a beautiful mountain with relatively easy access, but it should not be underestimated as the potential fall on the glacier may be fatal - self-arrest is difficult.

laureljarndt

laureljarndt - Nov 20, 2006 2:15 pm Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2004

Jampa Glacier  Sucess!

Easy way to knock off 18,000ft. After a day of acclimitizing and reconnisence we summitted from hut and back down to town in one day, but what a disappointing environment. From the trash in Mexico, to the theivery at the hut to the disgusting disregard for the 14,000 camp...very depressing, do not recommend.

phydeux

phydeux - Oct 7, 2006 5:03 pm

Nice  Sucess!

Spent Thanksgiving (USA) in central Mexico and did this via the Piedra Grande hut/Jampala Glacier with a Mexican friend from Puebla. Nice clear, calm summit day.

renogurt

renogurt - Oct 5, 2006 2:01 am

Worst Storm Ever  Sucess!

The clouds started coming in at 16,500, too cold to wait for others, so I didn't see my friends til we all met at camp 4 hours later. Went to the beach later that night.

chris_goulet

chris_goulet - Sep 30, 2006 4:26 am Date Climbed: Feb 18, 1991

Route Climbed: Barranca Seca, Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

Sea-level to summit human-powered solo ascent.

Bicycle/trailer ride with all my gear from Veracruz to Coscomatepec, then walked from the humid East side of the volcano, up the Barranca Seca (dry creek) and the NE slopes. This was my first 'high altitude' peak, so I followed acclimatization 'by the book' with camps at 10000', 12000', 13000', 14000', 15000' and 16000'. Other than breathing like crazy, this was an easy climb technically, with the continuous good weather. The magnificent Citlalt├ępetl volcano fueled my passion for masterpieces of mineral splendor, with its grand and exquisite multi-hued crater.

I was practicing and testing myself for Aconcagua, so after summiting and back to 16000' camp, I returned to the crater rim a couple days later and camped at 18600'. That was awesome and I felt great, so I became a high altitude junkie.

bidwelldk

bidwelldk - Sep 14, 2006 7:30 pm Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2005

Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

Fantastic Trip. Spent one night camping on the way to Piedre Grande and one night @ the hut. Felt a little nauseous above 15,000', would've spent one more night @ the hut if I had to it again, but made the summit and had a great trip.

peakrat76

peakrat76 - Aug 14, 2006 10:16 pm Date Climbed: Mar 7, 1978

Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

Stormed off in 75. Returned in 78. Sr. Reyes at the Antigua Flor arranged transport. We owned the hut and mountain for several days. No crowds back then. Got a midnight start and summited on the 7th. Beautiful day, good snow/ice conditions. First peak over 14K.

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