This was the main objective of our 9 day Haliku Adventures trip to Mexico. A full moon climb with a sunrise summit on perfect snow was worth all the work. All six of us made it in good time.
20 Jan 2005
The worst part of this route is what we called the labyrinth, a maze of house sized rock ridges and boulders from the recently retreated glacier. The best advice is to stay on top of or to the left side of the far right ridge at 15,600 feet. Its not fun going but it'll get you to the glacier. The amount of retreat showing in photos from 4-5 years ago is amazing. The glacier will be gone soon if that rate continues.
A detailed trip report can be found here.
Climbed with Chris (Haliku), Jon (RkyMtn), Kiefer, Barry and Rush as part of a nine day culture and climbing adventure in Mexico. Route was in perfect condition, one step cramponing and good snow into the labyrinth made route finding pretty straight forward. We also had a full moon and barely needed our headlamps at all. Topped out just after sunrise. We stayed with the Limon family and had a great time, such friendly and warm people. My highest summit to date, look forward to more high altitude peaks in the future!
Me and Christoph took an AU bus from Puebla to Tlachichuca, stayed one night at the Servimont climbing lodge and drove to Piedra Grande hut the next day. We slept there one night after climbing up to 4550 m to leave our tent at the first camp. The next morning we carried supplies (15 l water) to the campsite and scouted the route up to 4900 m. We returned to the camp and slept on 4550 m. On summit day we left camp at 1.30 am and reached the summit via the Jamapa Glacier normal route at 7 to 7.30 am just in time for sunrise. The views and the crater are beautiful! We spent an hour at the summit and returned to camp around 11 am, took a little nap and returned to the hut in time for our scheduled 2pm pickup to return to Tlachichuca. Perfect weather and snow conditions!
Great climb and a great way to end a hiking spree through Guatemala and Mexico!
Me and my guatemalan team decided to make a camping area over the Jamapa Glacier to save time. We sleep over 5000 mts and went for the summit next day. From 5000 mts to 5750 mts we spent 3 hours. Great views, sky totally clear.
2nd time is the charm.
Fun climb uo the Jamapa Glacier. First big climb was alot of fun. Servimont is the best!
Didn't make it to summit due to poor planning logistically. Made it to the crater rim about 500 ft below the summit and proposed to my fiance.
This was the third of the big three volcanoes we did (Popo and Ixta). The hut was interesting but got to the top quicker than expected (thanks to the previous two ascents). Has to be one of the easiest big mountains there is (as are Popo and Ixta). Two days before at our hotel in Pueblo someone spray painted "Yankees Go Home" out side. We later found out Reagan had just invaded Panama. Other than that, we loved the country, food, and the people. And I got to spend Christmas eve in Mexico City.
If you want to see what is Orizaba all about with images and videos all together you have to watch the video on you tube...
Here´s our experience on last december 2007.
It took 3 attempts to reach the Piedra Grande Hut from Tlachichuca. Rain storms had kept us back and we finally hiked the last few miles from where the jeep could no longer make progress. By time we reached the snow and stopped to put on crampons my feet were colder than they have ever been. A Mt Travel grooup was ahead of us so it was not difficult following the route and staying out of trouble. We made the summit and it was astounding. We got to enjoy the view for some time before heading back down. No altitude problems and I felt fine after returning to the hut. A Grand climb indeed!!
Best climb so far. Classic peak with a terrific reward at the top. We skipped the Labyrinth and went straight up to the foot of the glacier. Challenging but worth the effort.
Attempted the peak with five friends in January 2007. A combination of poor acclimatization, routefinding difficulties and leadership problems caused us to top out at around 16k feet on a ridge well away from the glacier, where we were forced to turn around. Trip report here: http://www.aleclalonde.com/articles/2007/2
Only group to make it up that day...everyone else turned around due to high winds and cold. Very satisfying.
Tagged along with a couple of guys from Mexico City when my partner turned back. Great views. Learned to stop bringing PowerBars up to altitude because mine was frozen solid.
Great climb up the Jamapa Glacier and first time in the higher elevations other than Colorado's 14ers! Loved it and the experience!
I was the only person to go up on this day. Perfect alpine conditions with a full moon lighting up the snow. Roundtrip time from the hut was 10 hours including a 30 min stop on the summit. A perfect end to a great trip!
A fine solo climb up the Jamapa Glacier in perfect weather with great climbing conditions.
1 day acclimating at the refugio, then a 4am start for a 8am summit. The labyrinth was a bit icy, the toes were a bit cold (single leather backpacking boots!), and the summit was was a bit pretty... well, very pretty actually! Good solo climb up the Jamapa... would love to climb some of the more technical routes on this beautiful mountain some day.
Nice climb up the Jampa