We summited after riding off a storm at Camp 4 at 6400m
They say its the easiest 7000m - well there isn't much easy at 7000m :)
A long tiring route without the biggest objective dangers
My first potential summit attempt was wasted because of a weather phenomenon wich seems to be peculiar to the mountain: In the second half of the night started ferocious wind blowing from the S above 6000m, but it stopped in the late morning hours. Next day repeated everything but this time I ignored the morning wind and summitted successful. This fenomenon was confirmed by others climbed in other years. It seems to be usual that an unfriendly cold and windy morning may followed by a suitable summit day.
Glacier: crevasse problems may escalate (signs of climate change?) There were crevasses on the slope over C2 as well and Camp2 self had to move to the scree slope because of a huge crevasse wich opened directly below the camp while we had been in C3.
Started very late (around 6:30 a.m. from C3) and reached about 7050 m before turning around :-(( at about 3:30 p.m., which was set as 'turn-around-time'. Started with perfect conditions - clear blue sky, not too cold and only little wind. In the afternoon weather started to deteriorate, but reached C3 without problems. Probably the best summit day for the next days.
Although we had nice weather overall, a rescue and heavy snowfall caused our summit attempt to fail. Serious avalange danger to climb further than the saddle in front of Peak Razdelnaya at 5800 mtr. Highest point we reached was Peak Razdelnaya during acclimatization.
Although no summit it was a great experience and made me hungry for the next trip!
No summit this time !
Heavy snow during the 3 previous days stopped our summit bid.
Waiting in the overheated tent for days was however the hardest thing to deal with... I´ll know for next time.
So much climbing potential in Kyrgyzstan and really cool people.
Despite the symbolic date and a two-day snowfall beforehand we managed to reach the top. Some of us had cold feet and had to do occasional breaks to warm ourselves, but fortunately, there was almost no wind on the ridge that day. Overall, the season of 2007 is notorious for changing weather and strong winds.
I totally agree with Corax that double boots is a must for the peak (it's not only cold but the altitude that makes your toes freeze). I had problems with my overconfidence and Scarpa Cumbre above 6000 m.
I would also recommend taking an ice axe to the summit - you will feel a lot more comfortable with it on the Knife (although poles might also work fine IF you promise yourself not to slip).
Climbed as an independent group with one partner. Used Asia Mountains for logistics. They did a great job of setting up transport and feeding us properly at camp 1 and 2. Also set up a great tour of Uzbekistan.
Didn't make the summit. Was there a bit too early in the climbing season and got turned back by weather. Spent 5 days in a storm at camp 3 - several tents were blown down! Be careful about stashing gear here and collapse your tent if you are going to leave it behind!!
Make sure you leave time in your trip to see the beautiful country of Kyrgystan :)
Suffered badly from stomach problems, and had to abandon the climb without summiting.
I'm from Croatia and this was my first climb above 4800m. Reached the summit after 10 days in mountain, by the classical route, relatively easy, very happy about it.
Looking for contact with Jirzy from Plzen who was on the summit with me, and Christian, Austrian guide whom I met on C3 and later on C1.
And one other question. About the "real summit". There are three prominent tops on the summit ridge. I was told the middle one is the highest, and there I found this wooden stick with some www adress on top of it, and broken ski pole next to it. I heard others says that the farthest one is three meters higher, but I didn't go there. So, anybody knows the real heights of those tops?
Summitted Peak Lenin on 14th of August, after a long climb (10 hrs) to the summit with high wind conditions. Cold feet but beautifull views.
Had a hard time on 'the Knife' after theoretical Camp 4.
We left Camp 3 at 06.00 hrs in a just rising sun. Hit the summit at 15.58 (an hour after official returning time, Oleg (my experienced guide through ITC / Asia Mountains) argued that the good weather would give us longer light...).
Return was tough due to again high winds and longitude. At last light (20.00 hrs) we passed Camp 3 in the saddle, being now punished for the fact having build our own Camp 3 at Razdalnaya Peak (approx 80 metres higher up towards Camp 2...). Argument at building it was that the next day leaving, you would not have to reclimb R. Peak first (and much more space, which where both correct). Result was that at the maximum end of our resources, we still had to make the 80 metres up to the tent with the sun by far gone.
In complete darkness, by 21.00 hrs we reached the tent, devistated but extremely happy. Did it! Peak Lenin, 7134 m! Cognac and soup where served by Oleg...
Aprox temperatures varied between minus 29 (at 06.00 hrs) and -10/15 later through the day. Wind was hard to estimate, but definately at the most exposed parts (up to 40% of the trip) they felt as up to Beaufort 7/8... Ridiculous.
Best time to climb this year was definately mid August (many expeditions either failed completely or only managed just some of the members, mainly due to too much snow and too cold conditions)
Take care and enjoy this beautifull mountain.
Arrived in Achik Tash on July 18, 2005 as part of a big non-guided group of 22 members; the ISLET 2005 expedition which included 9 type 1 diabetics with yours truly being one of them. Our outfitter, ITC Asia Mountains, did an excellent job at BC and ABC (providing tents and meals). The most difficult day from a technical perspective was the trip from ABC to Camp 2. This section was heavily crevassed and exposed to some avalanche and falling serac hazard. Best to move fast, travel early in the morning, and stay roped for this section. Camp 2 to Camp 3 was by far the most enjoyable and virtually free of any crevasse danger with good scenery. My partner Doug and I were reasonably fit, as acclimatized as possible in such a short time, and made our first and only attempt on July 30 with two other members of our expedition. We left Camp 3 in poor weather conditions with high winds and so-so visibility, but conditions improved. Above Camp 4 we passed the body of a climber we later found out was a 24-yr old Polish man who had died only 5 or 6 days earlier from unknown injuries or illness below a steeper snow section on frozen scree.
Windy and cold but visibility improved. Doug reached the summit in approximately 5.25 hours from C3 and I was about a half hour behind and reached the summit around 12:30 am and waited for Beppe Tararan (from the ISLET group) on the summit and descended with him and eventually caught Doug on the descent who was waiting for us. We passed Giampaolo (the fourth ISLET member to summit July 30) who was still on his way up and within an hour of the summit. Arrived back at our tent at Camp 3 in less than three hours from the summit and brewed up. The regular afternoon snow storm arrived within a few hours and conditions deteriorated into the night with high winds and heavy snow. Dug out in the morning, brewed up and made it back down to ABC for lunch after waiting for the weather to improve at C3. Ate a leisurely lunch and left ABC for Achik Tash by 3:30 pm (a bit late) and went as quickly to BC as possible and made it a few minutes after 7 pm and great dinner and sleeeep.
Kyrgyzstan is an amazing country with many, many more interesting possibilities....
Summitted 26 August from camp 3, 6100 m and was back in camp after about 10 hours. Descended all the way to camp 1 / ABC. Summitted with our danish guide and 3 rushian guides. Only I out of 9 clients made the summit. The entire trip fell apart due to very poor organising on behalf of our rushian guides. Due to my backs not making the transfer in Heathrow I did not receive most of my gear after 2 weeks. Had to borrow gear form the others.