After I was forced to turn around on the plateau at 6.400m in August 2013 I returned six years later. This time I came almost three weeks earlier in the season. After a few days with low clouds and short rainfalls, I had the unbelievable luck of almost 12 days continuous sunny and clear weather. After repeated load carries up and down ABC, C2 and C3, and after a full rest day on C3, I left camp at 03:00 and summited at 10:30. The wind was around 20 km/h with clear weather and not exceptionally cold. I summited solo on day 13th and spent one full hour on the summit. I used Ak-Sai once again as Base Camp and logistic provider. They did a very good job.
On 27 July the weather deteriorated and become bad. Most tragically there were reports of a missing climber which was later found dead on the mountain.
Summited July 29, 3019 after 9 days on mountain. Didn’t use travel agency or guide service, just went solo and carried everything. Found plenty of people to rope up with on the dangerous bit from C1 to C2. My schedule:
Day 1 - arrive in BC 3600m
Day 2 - trek 15 km to C1 4400m
Day 3 - climb Mt Yuhin 5100m
Day 4 - rest day in C1
Day 5 - climb to C2 5400m
Day 6 - climb to C2.5 5800m
Day 7 - rest in C2
Day 8 - climb to C3 6100m
Day 9 - rest in C3
Day 10 - summit at 10:30 after 7 hrs
Day 11 and 12 - back down
Summit was quite windy and cold. Got a little frostbite on fingertips but not bad. Maybe -20 degC and 70 kph winds. Saw many deaths and injuries throughout. At least one per day. Had to rescue a man who had gone completely blind near the summit.
Going through a guide service will greatly reduce your risk but in my opinion also your chance of success.
From Yukhin peak to Lipkin rocks
My first 7000m peak. While not technical and fairly easy, it's quite a long way up from BC. High wind and very cold on the summit night almost forced me to turn back as my toes felt numb and turned purple in La Sportiva Spantik. Had to stop 3 times to warm them up and lost a lot of time and my climbing partner who continued to avoid freezing. Ended up climbing alone after the rock band. I was the last one on the summit at 12:30 AM. A total of 7h30m from Camp 3. Spent 10 minutes taking some photos and admiring the view but had to leave as the clouds were closing in. I reached back the camp just before the storm. Spent the night there and descended the next morning all the way to BC. After 10 days from arriving at BC I stood on the summit. Next year I will go back for Korzhenevskaya and Comunism.
PS: we used Ak-Sai for logistics and they did a great job. The food was not very good though and spent most of the days on the toilet.
!!! they use mountain-forecast which was wrong most of the time. We pushed for the summit bid while everybody else headed for BC as the website was showing heavy snow all week. I suggest you have an InReach GPS for a more accurate prediction.
Tried Pik Lenin in July 2017, 3 weeks in the mountains, four nights in C3 at 6100 m, got only to the Knife, around 6700. Maybe next time.
Cold climb on a clear day. I spent 2 hours on the summit.
Was not strong enough to overcome a poor acclimating plan and only made it to around 6800m. 2 of 6 of my friends topped out that day, and a third did a few days later. Kyrgyzstan and the Pamir was one of my favorite places I have been and I do hope to get back someday.
One of the first summits this year.
bad weather in July this year, not many summits. Used Ak-Sai for logistics. Made 3 load carries from BC-C1.
Long climb, had good luck with the weather near the summit.
I enjoyed the mountain , Pamir and Kyrgyzstan very much!
Me and my partner Johan Dahlström (SWE) spent three weeks on Pik Lenin between 1-21 August 2014. During the first two weeks the weather was ok but in the end it unfortunately became worse. The winds increased and so did the snow.
After a load carry to C3 (6200m) we had to return to ABC. On August 15th the weather improved slightly just after a snow storm and we pushed to C3. We spent three nigths at C3 with a summit bid on the 18th where we were forced to abort the climb at around 6400m. We made the summit bid together with Rumen Radev (BGR).
Despite no summit we had three great weeks in the Pamir mountains. We used the transport and base camp service of Ak-Sai Travel. The people we came across were all very nice and friendly. What an exciting region! I do hope to get back one day.
Made the summit from camp 2.5 at about 5,800m on a bitterly cold day after almost three weeks on the mountain. One of the less dramatic summits I've been on.
At all, great weeks in Pamir.
Summiting via normal route from C4 (6400) with 2 friends
(after 5 days waiting for better weather). While descending to C2, we had to escort german mountainer with high-altitude sickness.
With partner Mike Y from the 6200 m camp along with Kazach, Tajik and Austrian teams. All have been waiting for the right weather window. The forecast didn't disappoint.
Thanks to Andrey from Almaty for making the climb look easy on summit day. Thankfully I didn't know at the time that he is a Snow Leopard and has a few 8K peaks on his resume :-)
Fairly straightforward climb, bit windy on the summit ridge. Lots of crevasses both hidden and obvious from camp 1 to camp 2, with one opening up right in the middle of camp 2. In 8 days we had two days of suitable summit/high climbing weather and were able to use this window and a shitty day before to make the summit push. A lot of snow and hard work breaking an early season trail but on the way down it was a well compacted and flagged highway with at least 50 climbers moving up from camp 1 over two days. Easy to do independently, my partner and I got permits in Osh in two days from Osh guesthouse and transport to BC and back organised off the cuff for 50 bucks each way. Lots of independent and solo climbers to hook up with for the crevasse section too. Nice climb!
I am with clients summited 13.30 - 11 august 2012. Start from camp 3, 6100m 4.00 a.m. Come back 8.00 p.m. All day the weather is not good - windy and cloudy, in the evening blizard.
used no porters or guides. deep snows and strong winds... quite challenging compared to for example Aconcagua... pushed our luck and summited 15:00
We summited after riding off a storm at Camp 4 at 6400m
They say its the easiest 7000m - well there isn't much easy at 7000m :)
A long tiring route without the biggest objective dangers
My first potential summit attempt was wasted because of a weather phenomenon wich seems to be peculiar to the mountain: In the second half of the night started ferocious wind blowing from the S above 6000m, but it stopped in the late morning hours. Next day repeated everything but this time I ignored the morning wind and summitted successful. This fenomenon was confirmed by others climbed in other years. It seems to be usual that an unfriendly cold and windy morning may followed by a suitable summit day.
Glacier: crevasse problems may escalate (signs of climate change?) There were crevasses on the slope over C2 as well and Camp2 self had to move to the scree slope because of a huge crevasse wich opened directly below the camp while we had been in C3.
Started very late (around 6:30 a.m. from C3) and reached about 7050 m before turning around :-(( at about 3:30 p.m., which was set as 'turn-around-time'. Started with perfect conditions - clear blue sky, not too cold and only little wind. In the afternoon weather started to deteriorate, but reached C3 without problems. Probably the best summit day for the next days.