Getting ThereRiverside, CA - Route 60
Exit Blaine/3rd street and head North uphill towards the mountains. Pass UCR and Watkins and continue all the way up through a stop sign, almost to the end of Blaine st until you reach Belvedere, make a Left, and continue up to Two Trees, make a Right and park at the end of the road on the right past the sign for Box Springs Mountain Park.
From the Parking Lot, the road turns into the trail for Two Trees Trail that leads up into Box Springs Mountain. Almost immediately from the parking lot look Left to a road fenced with a yellow sign, and a trail beyond it. Above you can see the a main wall with distinct crack systems any climber would spot out. Follow this old road-now trail skirts private property and follows right, but pick up a distinct trail to the Left (West) that climbs uphill to the hillside and cuts Right straight uphill to the rocks. Gain the main wall with the cracks and several other climbs, follow a more distinct trail around this formation to the Knob Wall, which is around the corner from the main wall about 200 yards.
Get to the bottom of the knob wall and to the left will be the bolted 5.5 Pimple Patrol. To the right with no pro is 5.3
Approach from Parking Lot to Main Wall- 20 min max.
Main Wall to Knob Wall- Less than 5 min.
Bouldery start with friction onto thin edges and balance up to a knob, clip in. More friction and feet get you higher to the next knob below the next bolt. Mantle this and clip. The crux of the climb is not sliding off up to now on the route. Continue higher on to 2 closed shut anchors.
The finish of this route from the 2nd bolt goes straight on another tough friction section to the anchor. You have 2 options. You can traverse right and up to gain the anchor, but beware, as this section of the climb is the most runout and exposed on lead, and you could deck with a misstep here. Or you can just friction up and clip the anchor, then pull up and build your anchor and so on
-2 Quick Draws
30ft Route. I used a 29 meter rope, was perfect.
External Links This
is Riverside County Parks web page