Went into The Cirque for Wolf's Head, but backed off due to too much snow on the steep descent so we did Pingora's South Buttress. Fun climb. Stiff route for this Oregonian.
Failed at the traverse, but still a nice day out
Day before we got to base and there was a party of 8 complete with beginners, short roped etc. Tried to climb crack to left to pass, butno luck. So bailed and did Wolf's Head. Came back next day and no one S Buttress as luck would have it. Fun route
What a classic route. A little stiff for 5.8 but still quite reasonable.
Sept 10, 2013 - Climbed the Northeast Face with Mike Sullivan. Damn tough "5.8".
We spent 4 days and 3 nights in the cirque. We hiked in late in the after noon on the first day and got to our camp by dinner. We did Pingora the first day and had the tower to ourselves. To beat the bugs, we stayed at Cirque Lake until dinner After climbing Pingora. We ended up doing a 5.9 variation. For some reason, we started climbing up the chossy and icy Tiger-Pingora Col. Realizing this was not the right we, we started climbing and I did a 230'ft pitch in funky class five and up terrain to reach the ledges at the start of South Buttress proper. From here, we got off route again and climbed a left facing dihedral that went to a finger crack. This turned out to be 5.9. We finished with the spectacular k-cracks! Such a fun climb!
Great climb despite the hail/rain and entanglements with other climbers running the same route.
Sweet route, varied terrain- crack, face, odd positions. Fun all around.
great piece of rock!
6/23/13 Climbed via South Buttress in route to Wolf Head.
07/22/14 Climbed NE Face with 5.9 variation with Nick Gaddy
Boom! So frickin' awesome! God's country for sure! Did the Southeast face, Got a little dehydrated there for a bit, didn't bring enough water. Will know better next time!
7/1/12 - Climbed the popular 3 pitch South Buttress route on our 1st day in the Cirque to test the waters. I led the long P2. Finished on the 5.8 left K-Crack. Fun route to a cool summit and a great intro to the area.
7/3/12 - Went back for the much more committing East Face, Left Side Cracks route. 11 pitches, pretty tiring. I only led P2, P4 & P6. Top part felt tough for 5.7. Awesome!
8/17/20 - Swapped leads with Marc on the classic NE Face. Waited an hour and a half to get on the route behind 3 other parties.
8/20/20 - Climbed the East Face, Left Side Cracks again, this time with Marc in 8 pitches. Great climb. Lots of crack, including some OW.
Great route, fewer mosquitoes later in the year but taking a chance on bad weather.
Longest route on Pingora, with lots of quality climbing. Hail, rain, and lightning started two pitches from the top. Ran down the gully to the rap station, got soaked on the hike back to camp.
Great climb. Hands down my favorite climb to date. Had the whole mountain to ourselves and not a mosquito in site. Thanks Matt for another safe and successful trip.
I have the '68 (2nd) edition of the Bonney guide for reference and wonder if anyone knows if this classic NE face route is same one listed there as the E face (IV, 5.8, A3, 1st asc. by Daley and Yensan in 8/62)? There is no NE face route listed in that guide...but it sounds the same. If they are the same route I find it remarkable that that route is now only a 5.8 without any aid!!!
I climbed the ESE face route (IV, 5.7 A3, a Becky, Marts, Davis route from 7/63) with 2 friends in the summer of '77 (I think the E face sounded too difficult for us and our RR, and PA climbing shoes...) There is no mention of that climb anywhere on the net these days - it was great! Although the top 300' of A3 (a single hairline crack on the blank upper wall) is hard to imagine going free at any moderate grade. As it was, we took awhile doing it (2 full pitches, all small stoppers if I recall), and ended up spending the night atop Pingora... waiting for the sun to rise.
Fun climb. Four other parties on the route, so we got a bit logjammed.
In the Wind's for three days and two night. Worst mosquito's I have ever encountered in six trips to the winds. I got over 400 mosquito bites. My partner had even more. All three pitches of the South Buttress 5.6, 5.6 and 5.8 K crack were great.
August 2010 - had a long beautiful day linking Pingora and Wolf's Head.
Climbed the S. Buttress (with K Cracks last pitch) as the first of three routes on three consecutive days in the Cirque. We had GREAT weather, and the climbing was super-relaxed. Alpine cragging!